Birds and Flight

Fall is the time of the year when many birds are busy preparing for the long journey to their winter homes. Migration is the movement of birds and other animals from one home to another. Some birds will fly thousands of miles to reach their winter homes!

Birds begin the journey to their winter homes before the food supply in the north runs out. Day length and temperature plays a part in triggering the birds' internal seasonal clocks. Shorter and cooler days means that the food supply is running out. When the water in ponds and lakes begin to freeze over, waterfowl cannot get at food easily and it is time to fly south where it is warmer and open water and food can be found.

In the fall birds begin to flock together getting ready for the big trip south. This is the time of the year when you will see flocks of blackbirds feeding on berries or the V-formation of flocks of geese in flight. It is an important time to build up strength and fuel up for the dangerous voyage.

Birds use fat as fuel for their journey. It is important that they have enough to eat before they leave so they are able to store enough fat for the long distance they must travel. Some birds make many stops, filling up with enough food to make it to the next stage of their journey.

Birds face many hazards during migration. Some may get blown off course or get caught in a storm. Some birds don't have enough food or fat stored to complete the trip. Hunters claim thousands of ducks and geese each year during fall hunting season. Changes in forestry, agriculture and urban expansion are difficult for birds. These changes affect the habitats of birds and other wildlife. Migrating birds depend on the forests and wetlands and sometimes cannot adapt to the changes.

Related Internet Resources:

http://scienceforfamilies.allinfo-about.com/features/birdmigration.html
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If you’re a birder, you want to keep a list of sightings when you bird watch. Your life lists should be kept in a bird watching journal.

Life List

A life list is a record of the species of birds you’ve sighted over time. Typically, the list is kept in a journal. Each entry notes the bird species, the date, location and any notes you want to add. Depending on your particular bird watching exploits, you can keep one global list or separate lists as you see fit.

For many bird watchers, one life list simply isn’t enough. So, how can you break down your lists? Here are a few ideas:

1. House Lists – A list of birds sighted around your home.

2. Yearly Lists – A list for each year you bird watch.

3. State Lists – A list for sighting by particular state.

4. Trip Lists – Journals for particular bird watching vacations or tours.

5. Wish Lists – A list of birds you haven’t seen, but hope to. You simply cross them off as sightings occur.

Computer Life Lists

You can purchase computer life list programs or use online variations. Each program is different, but most come in a checklist format. You enter information and the program spits out your list.

The problem with using computer programs is…well, the computer aspect. Unless you are willing to lug a laptop around with you, there is going to be a delay between sightings and your journal entries. Using a computer program is also troublesome if you want to keep a collection of sketches of particular species you’ve identified. For most birders, a computer list is a supplement to a good journal, not a replacement.

Bird watching is an extremely personal passion. If you’re just starting, you may think you don’t need to keep a life list. The problem with this approach, of course, is you will regret the decision if you later decide to do so. All those sightings will be gone with time…

If you’re going to start bird watching, make sure you keep a life list journal from the outset. As I like to say, “Preserve the experience!”

Bird Watching is a great way to escape the rat race and be one with nature. Alas, your bird watching experiences can fade with time. The best way to prevent this is to keep a bird watching journal for your sightings and trips.

Bird Watching Journals

Take a minute to give some consideration to your most recent bird watching experience. What sticks out in your mind? Now think about the first time you ever went bird watching. Undoubtedly, you remember few things about the geography, people you went with, every bird sighted and so on. The experiences you’ve forgotten are lost to time. If you had kept a bird watching journal, this wouldn’t be the case.

There are famous instances of people keeping journals throughout time. Of course, Anne Frank’s Diary is the best example. In her diary, Anne kept a running commentary of the two years her family spent hiding from the Nazis. While your bird watching experiences better be more lighthearted, keeping a journal will let you remember them as the years pass.

A good bird watching journal combines a number of characteristics. First, it should be compact so you don’t have to take up unnecessary space for other things. Second, it should have a case to protect it from rain, spills and so on. Third, the journal should contain blank areas to write your notes. Fourth, the journal should contain cue spaces to remind you to keep notes on specific things. Cues should include:

1. Who you went birding with,

2. Where you stayed and if you enjoyed it,

3. Who you met and contact information for them,

4. The geographic and weather conditions, and

5. The birds you sighted and added to your life list.

At the end of the trip, you should be able to get the following from your journal:

1. Contact information for other bird watchers and people you met,

2. Enough detail to provide you or a friend with a guide if you travel to the location a second time.

3. Memories to reflect upon years later, and

4. Something to pass on to your children and grandchildren.

To get the most out of your bird watching journal, you should write in it during and immediately after birding. Every sighting brings new experiences even if you’re just sitting in your backyard.

Bird watching is a great way to commune with nature. Make sure to preserve the experience.

An Empty Nest is For the Birds

by S. M. Calhoun



It was just a simple child’s book, its total vocabulary consisting of only five words. Yet, as I listened to a student read it on this particular day, I felt like weeping! What was wrong with me?

The story was about a young bird getting booted from the nest and gaining independence. As a mother, I had just begun to experience the reality of an "empty nest."

While the mother bird was cheerfully kicking her youngsters out, however, I had been holding onto mine for dear life! When the time came for me to relinquish my hold on them, I thought I had handled it very well. But when this little bird book threatened to drown me in tears, I knew it was time for me to come to grips with this unwelcome change.

I am sure that neither the author nor the illustrator ever dreamed that their simple words and drawings would evoke such strong feelings from a reader! It was just the timing in my life—the emptying of my own nest. On the first page, a mama bird was literally kicking her fledgling out of the nest!

The poor little creature plummeted out of the tree and fell toward the ground. He frantically flapped his wings up and down. It was the only movement he knew. He was in luck! The frenzied flapping halted his downward plunge and the wings stopped his fall.

The whole event had been observed by an enemy—a feline who was up to no good. She sneaked in for a closer look. Still a novice in flight science, the baby bird breathed a sigh of relief. Disaster, for the moment, had been averted. He rested his aching wings a moment. Big mistake! The downward plunge began anew—and this time, the hungry cat was waiting below, ready to take advantage of the little bird’s ignorance.

Perhaps he sensed the new threat to his well being, for once again, he beat his wings anxiously against the invisible air. At the last moment, just as he came within an inch of that outstretched claw, his life was saved. His panicked flight carried him upward toward the nest—and his heartless mother!

On this particular day, I was infuriated by the mother robin in the book; she did nothing but watch her innocent child’s perilous adventure. On this particular day, eyes hot with unshed tears, I was in no mood for reading about the hazards of bird life. In my mind, they too closely paralleled the dangers my children would be facing.

What kind of a mother is she? I thought, indignantly. Why is she not flying alongside her baby, lending a supportive wing—or strapping him into a parachute? Why has she not offered a demonstration in navigation, and warnings about Newton’s law or the cat’s paw before shoving him out into the world? Why is she not hopping up and down in a frenzy, screeching, "You’re in danger, Son! Flap harder!" And, finally, why isn’t that mother waging an all-out war against the mortal enemy who is drooling for an opportunity to devour her child?

Then the analogy hit me squarely in the heart, leaving me gasping for breath. Detachment. . . then anger . . . tearfulness . . . devastation . . . this was grief in its rawest form! So that’s all there is to it? I asked myself. I spend 18 years deeply involved in the lives of my children and suddenly, without warning, it’s over? Like the excruciating amputation of an arm—or the painful separation of death or divorce?

Suddenly, in the course of a day, life swings from one set of extremes to another. One day there is noise—boisterous laughter, angry arguments, constant conversation, water splashing in the shower, toilets flushing and loud ka-thumping music. Then . . . there is utter stillness—broken only by the cat crunching her Kit’n Kaboodles.

From busy-ness to aimlessness. From comfortable companionship to loneliness. From the peaceful sleep of knowing that everyone is tucked safely into bed, to feeling the hollowness—the arrested breathing—of an empty house. From worries about the kids getting safely across our busy street, to the sheer helplessness of being separated by 500 miles of interstate.

How was I to respond to this unwelcome upheaval that was supposed to be the normal way of things? Surely I wasn’t expected to stand aloof and pretend not to notice as life shoved me, unwillingly, into the next phase. Was I to pretend that my entire being hadn’t been focused on nurturing, loving, and protecting my children all these years?

Was I, like the mother robin, supposed to simply say, "You’re an adult, now. Go start a family of your own!" (Boot!) I don’t think so!

In the past, I had thoughtlessly accepted the analogy of the "empty nest" to that of children leaving home. It was a tidy way for psychologists to view life in stages—cramming every aspect of life into an orderly filing system of human development. But at this point in my life, I rebelled at those experts who would nod with knowing boredom at my predicament, toss the file containing my current crisis into the drawer marked "Empty Nest Syndrome" and, so casually, compare my situation to that of a bird!

Conducting an amateur counseling session with myself, I had to acknowledge the fact that I was grieving the end of family life as I had known it. I didn’t want my kids to grow up, leave home, and become independent! Well, SOMEday, sure. But not yet! I cried and patted my shoulder sympathetically in an attempt to come to grips with this new phase of my life.

Stepping back to take a more objective look at our years together, it was humbling to acknowledge all of the mistakes my husband and I had made along the path of parenting. Ours was not a soft, downy nest. It was hurriedly and crudely built, with more than its share of thorns.

Guilt warred with excuses as my thoughts continued down this painful path. What imperfect parents we had been! How many times had I caused my children to flinch at an unreasonable tongue-lashing from my lips? Yet, how many times did I walk away from their tears to cry into my own pillow, pleading for God to soothe the hurts we had inflicted?

And unlike the mama bird in the story, hadn’t I fanatically protected my children and loved them with a passion? Knowing from experience the dangers that lay in wait for them . . . knowing there were hidden enemies just waiting to find them unprotected and vulnerable to attack, I had introduced them to our Protector. So, now, why was my jaw gaping open in amazement to see God standing in the shadows of our past, gazing lovingly at our turbulent family life . . . unobtrusive, unobserved, often touching us in an attempt to draw our attention to Himself?

Angrily, I shook Him off, recalling each painful event that my children had endured at the hands of a teacher, a coach, or a youth leader. How many times were their talents ignored, passed over or shredded as they tried to serve Him? How many times did I cry out to God, begging Him to intervene so that their spirits would not be crushed? Where was He, then?

Taking a deep breath, I removed myself from the role as mother for a moment. Trying to view my children as the young adults they had become, I searched for the festering wounds I knew I would find in their character---scars inflicted by myself and by the world’s neglect. Instead, I found gentleness, compassion, patience, determination, confidence, self-control, and an inner strength!

I was in awe, recognizing God’s handiwork in the chiseling, shaping and sanding of my children’s character! They had long since cast aside those hurtful experiences that still haunted me. As young adults, they were pushing onward with integrity, eagerly anticipating what God had in store for their lives.

Hadn’t this been our goal while our kids were still toddling around, grasping onto furniture to keep from falling . . . to raise them to be young men and women dependent solely upon God? And despite our interference, it had happened!

"Get a grip," I told myself. "You can survive this separation. That’s what life is all about. Get used to it!" My husband saw my tears each night, and he knew the homesickness for my kids wouldn’t recede without some special care. He made some suggestions that were heaven-sent.

First, he suggested that our phone budget be adjusted to include a weekly, 20-minute phone call to each of our kids (sure, we had e-mail, but there’s something about actually hearing their voices. . .). And for my peace of mind, we allowed them freedom to call home if depression or any other emotional catastrophe hit them.

Then my husband suggested that we set aside several long weekends on our calendar (in big, red letters) to visit the kids. I found that going without a hug for 2 ½ months was my limit. Ironically, by experiencing the 500-mile trek at its worst (bumper-to-bumper traffic, overheated cars in a summer traffic jam, and icy mountain interstates), my fears of the unknown were lessened! I could visualize my kids driving home and predict where there were at any given moment.

We also found that 2 ½ months of separation changed their attitude toward us. . . they were actually excited to see us! Whenever we visited them, they included us in excursions with their friends. We went to their college classes, drove 10 miles to their favorite shopping haunts and restaurants, and got to know their friends. We experienced their famous "walking bridge" in the heart of Chattanooga. We waded in my son’s favorite mountain creek. We perched atop the windy heights of Lookout Mountain and gazed down at the glowing autumn colors. I felt God’s peace as we shared the beauty of His creation.

I cried as we left the mountains and our hearts behind, but the tears were gentler, now. "How can I continue to grieve," I asked myself, "knowing that my kids are in God’s will, 500 miles from home?"

From above, an invisible Protector continues to smooth out imperfections as He watches our relationship transform from that of mother and child, to a firm, forever friendship. What a blessing! What an honor!

As the sun sets in the evening sky, we see a young bird soaring confidently back to his nest. With a sense of exhilaration, he shouts to his watching mother, "I can fly!" He has been given his independence—and he has survived. Maybe there is something to this "empty nest" thing, after all.

(end)

If your nest is too quiet, consider sharing your backyard or garden with a family of feathered tenants. You'll find birdhouses, birdbaths, garden plaques and more at www.poshbungalow.com.

If the “tweet, tweet” of little beaks is in your future, bird cages are undoubtedly on your mind. Bird cages are available in every price range. They are also available in an increasingly diverse range of styles.

Bird cages are made in many different materials. Some of the most popular are wood, metal, and acrylic. Powder-coated and stainless steel cages are also available.

When choosing a bird cage, there are several main considerations. The first is, of course, price. If you are on a limited budget, you will not be able to buy a custom cage. The second consideration should be the type of bird you are buying. Different birds have different needs. Some birds, such as Amazons, cockatoos, conures, or African grays, require large cages. Others, such as canaries, parakeets, and finches, do better in smaller cages.

The next consideration is purely cosmetic. You will need to pick a cage that matches your décor. This is especially important if your bird is to be a focal point of your home. Bird cages are offered now in styles ranging from simple to elaborate, elegant to whimsical.

Keep in mind that the main purpose of the cage is to keep the bird happy and safe. To that end, there are a few additional considerations. First of all, your bird cage should have a large door. This gives you easier access to your feathered friend.

For convenience sake, look for a cage with food and water containers that can be filled from the outside. Ease of cleaning is also important. Generally, metal is easier to clean than wood or acrylic.

“Mommy, come see! There are fairies in the garden!”

And so they might have been to the eyes of a five year old who grew up on tales of pixies, elves and fairies. The magical visitor this time, though, was a ruby-throated hummingbird. Hummingbirds have a unique ability to hover in one place by rapidly fluttering their tiny wings which may truly have made them the ‘fairies’ that many people saw hovering around brightly colored flowers.

It’s not difficult to create a garden that will attract hummingbirds, but if you’d like to build a habitat in which they will happily nest and live throughout the northern summer, you need to provide them with more than a sugar-water feeder and a plant or two. An active hummingbird garden doesn’t need to be large, but it will have all of the following key ingredients to attract and keep the attention of nature’s fairies.

Choose nectar producing plants that bloom at different times throughout the spring, summer and autumn.

Flowers are, of course, the key ingredient in attracting hummingbirds to your garden. The tiny birds feed on nectar that is produced by flowers, and seem particularly attracted to plants with trumpet or tubular bright red and orange flowers. Among their particular favorites, though, are rhododendrons, azaleas and rose of Sharon bushes, so the red trumpet isn’t a hard and fast rule. For northern gardens that attract the ruby-throated hummingbird, choose from the list of plants below, making sure that you choose plants that flower at different times during the blooming season to provide food for them throughout the spring, summer and fall.

Spring Bloomers
Azaleas, rhododendrons and rose of Sharon bushes make a great ‘background’ for hummingbird gardens. They bloom early in the spring and continue blooming through the early summer. Pink and bright red varieties are favored, but hummingbirds love ALL rose of Sharon varieties.

Summer Bloomers
Bleeding hearts and red mountain columbine bloom in the early summer, as do petunias, morning glories, trumpet vines, trumpet honeysuckle, and impatiens, all of which attract hummingbirds. An expanse of shade-dappled impatiens is a powerful attraction for hummingbirds, who are ‘sight’ hunters, finding their feeding grounds by sight.

Autumn Bloomers
Butterfly bush, day lilies, garden phlox, bee-balm and impatiens all will keep hummingbirds returning through the autumn and attract late migrators.

Provide a source of water in the hummingbird garden.
Unlike larger birds, hummingbirds will seldom take advantage of a bird bath or bowl of water. Instead, they relish cool mists. A garden hose with a misting attachment or a small fountain that can be adjusted to a fine mist will keep them happy.

Create vertical space for hummingbirds to perch and nest in your garden.

Hummingbirds need shelter from predators and small branches for perching and resting (yes, yes, they do perch sometimes!). By choosing a few taller bushes or trees, you can provide both.

A few strategically placed hummingbird feeders will offer an easy treat in your hummingbird garden.

There are dozens of commercially designed hummingbird feeders designed to be attractive to the little wanderers. Choose feeders with bright red accents, and a capacity for about 8 ounces of sugar water. Rather than using one large feeder, place 2-4 of them around your garden, out of sight of each other if possible. Hummingbirds are notoriously territorial. By providing several ‘private’ feeding stations, you’ll increase the number of hummingbirds that you attract.

When it comes to birding, Acadia National Park is a mecca for sightings. The Park has 338 bird species, which is a record for any national park in the United States. The list of species includes such rare birds as the bald eagle, 23 warbler variations and falcons by the bushel load. If you’re looking to fill out your life list, Acadia is the place to be.

The park has such a wide variety of bird species because of a unique environment. Part of the park consists of offshore islands that provide protected nooks and crannies that are ideal for nesting. To this end, numerous species use these island nooks as their southern breeding headquarters. Nesting species include eiders in addition to other sea birds, herons and raptors. Sandpipers and a wide variety of ducks can also be found on the islands.

In addition to the nesting areas, Acadia is famous for its rare, predatory species. The park is home to a wide variety of eagles, including the bald eagle, and falcons. Indeed, Acadia is the home of the very rare Peregrine Falcon, which was nearly pushed to extinction in 1964. Reintroduced to Acadia in the mid 1980s, the Peregrines have flourished and established nesting patters in the park.

If you’re looking to add to your life list, Acadia National Park is a destination you must visit. Here’s a list of bird species you just might see:

Red Throat Loon
Common Loon
Pied-billed Grebe
Horned Grebe
Red-necked Grebe
Great Cormorant
Double-crested Cormorant
American Bittern
Least Bittern
Glossy Ibis
Black-bellied Plover
American Golden-Plover
Semipalmated Plover
Killdeer
Pomarine Jaeger
Parasitic Jaeger
Dovekie
Common Murre
Thick-billed Murre
Osprey
Bald Eagle
Northern Harrier
Sharp-shinned Hawk
Cooper's Hawk
Northern Goshawk
Red-shouldered Hawk
Broad-winged Hawk
Red-tailed Hawk
Rough-legged Hawk
Golden Eagle
American Kestrel
Merlin
Peregrine Falcon
Gyrfalcon
Common Nighthawk
Whip-poor-will
Red-breasted Nuthatch
White-breasted Nuthatch
Bohemian Waxwing
Cedar Waxwing
Solitary Vireo
Warbling Vireo
Philadelphia Vireo

This list is a very small sample of the species you will find at Acadia. Located in Maine, the park is highly recommended as a destination for amateur and fanatical bird watchers.

Making Gourd Birdhouses takes a little patience, but can be well worth the time and effort. Watching birds nest in your own homegrown gourd birdhouse will bring you joy and satisfaction.

Harvesting:
Harvest a hard-shell gourd when the vine has withered. Be careful to leave the stem attached. It's best to cut the stem with pruning shears so you don't bruise it. Hang it in a sunny spot or put it on newspaper in a warm dry place for 3 - 6 months.

If it is lying on a flat surface, be sure to turn frequently, A proper size for birdhouses has a diameter of about 8 to 13 inches. Wash thoroughly in water, rinse in a solution of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water, and dry with a towel.

Drying:
As it dries, it will begin to mold. This is a natural part of the drying process. If dried indoors it will grow more mold and should be frequently wiped clean with the bleach solution.

Discard any that become soft or wrinkled. To check if it is dry, give it a good shake - if the seeds rattle, you can begin making your birdhouse.

Turning Your Gourd Into A Birdhouse:
Soak the gourd for 15 minutes in hot soapy water, and then scrape with a dull knife to remove the outer skin and mold. Scrub in the water with fine steel wool. Rinse it well and allow to dry thoroughly.

To locate the birds entrance hole, hold it by its stem between your index finger and thumb and let it hang. Mark a center point along the outermost part of the curve so the hole faces straight out. Not toward the sky or the ground.

The entrance hole can be easily drilled with the proper-size hole saw or by using a keyhole saw.

Wear a facemask, as the dust is a caustic substance.

Drill 2 sets of holes about 2 inches from the neck for hanging and ventilation. Also drill 2 or 3 1/4 inch holes in the bottom for drainage. Drill the size hole necessary to encourage the birds you want to attract.

Remove the seeds and membrane of the gourd through the entrance hole with a long-handled metal spoon, screwdriver or a wire coat hanger.

Dip the whole thing in a wood preservative of 15 minutes, weighting it down with a brick. Then remove it and hang it up to dry for several days. Sand the gourd smooth and paint with and oil-based primer. Allow it to dry thoroughly. Paint the house with exterior enamel paint (do not use water based latex paint as it will peel) Apply 2 coats. Decorate anyway you like and hang it in the proper place to attract the birds you want.

There you are, Well on you way to making your own gourd birdhouses.

Vist Wild Bird Watching for information on the habits and sounds of your favorite backyard birds.

Creating the perfect garden for birds begins by understanding the needs of birds.
Birds, as with other wildlife, require certain elements in the garden to survive.

These elements include:

Food

Water

Shelter

Planting for birds can add beauty as well as function to your backyard.

Food:

Begin by surveying your yard. You may already have some of the ingredients
needed for a bird friendly backyard.

Many flowers you already enjoy provide food for the birds. Coneflowers are
a favorite summer and fall food source for Goldfinches. Sunflowers offer
the seed that attracts the greatest variety of birds.

Consider tubular flowers for attracting Hummingbirds. Favorites include
Trumpet vine, Cardinal flower, and Scarlet runner.

Annuals can also attract these tiny hummers, try including mass plantings of
salvia, impatient, and containers of geraniums.

Adding some of the ornamental grasses will also provide late summer feeding
for birds, while providing beauty in the landscape. Those tall plumes provide
seed Goldfinches, Black-capped Chickadees, and Purple Finches love.

Shelter:
Trees and shrubs in the landscape not only provide beauty but offer the birds
a place to hide and raise their young.

Flowering Dogwoods, and the small fruited crabapples, not only provide a valuable
food source, but will attract Robins and others to nest in spring. Select varieties
that hold their fruit well into winter.

Favorite shrubs include, Service Berry, Honeysuckle, and American Holly. Plant
these and you are sure to be visited by Robins, Thrashers, Mockingbirds, and more.
Shrubs are also a favorite nesting site of the Northern Cardinal.

Evergreens are an essential part of the bird garden. Providing important shelter
and berries during winters cold. In spring, you'll be rewarded by nesting birds
by planting a few varieties of tall evergreens.

Water:
How you provide water isn't important. Whether you add a full backyard pond or
a simple bird bath, just be sure to add water. Birds need water not only to
drink, but also to keep their feathers in tip-top shape.

Even in winter, a water supply is needed. Consider purchasing a bird bath heater.
A heated bird bath will not only keep an open water source available for the birds,
but will offer you a greater variety of birds to watch. Without a winter source of
water, birds will have to use energy used to keep warm and survive to find water.

Allow your plants to remain in the garden through the winter. This allows the birds
to feed on seed heads and insects much longer.

Consider placing feeders and birdhouses in your yard. Once you've watched House Wrens
scouring the soil for insects in your vegetable and flower gardens, you'll be
convinced, gardening for birds is in your best interest.

Visit Wild-Bird-Watching.com for bird watching information on the nesting, mating, and feeding habits of backyard birds.

SONGBIRDS are among nature's greatest indicators of a quality environment.


In and around many industrial centers where pollutants are rampant and in heavy agricultural areas where pesticide use is great, the number of songbirds has decreased in recent years.



Not so in most of Texas, where clean air, excellent habitat and people interested in nature are the rule and not the exception. Many Texans are concerned about the inroads being made upon nature by an expanding human race & receive balm to their spirits each spring via the cheerful melodies of songbirds.



You can get a front-row seat in your own back yard to this concert by providing nesting places such as a Bird House for the birds of your choice. This is becoming especially important, because habitat destruction by man is critically reducing songbird nesting areas. A good project this spring would be to build a Bird House or two. This is a great family project for Father & Son/Daughter.



Those who enjoy the companionship of birds will find these types of Bird House inexpensive and fun to build. A well-built Bird House should be durable, rainproof, cool, and readily accessible for cleaning. By using some imagination, the builder can also add an attractive touch to the landscape.



Wood, such as Cedar, Cypress, & Pine are the best building materials. Metals other than aluminum should be avoided, for they become extremely hot when exposed to a sweltering sun. Treated Lumber should also be avoided as it is toxic to some birds. Rough cut slabs with the bark left on make ideal material for a rustic looking Bird House.



Roofs should be constructed with sufficient pitch to shed water. At least 3 inches of overhang should be allowed to protect the entrance of the Bird House from driving rain. Some water may still seep into the Bird House, therefore a few small holes should be drilled in the floor to allow drainage.



Builders should plan for several holes near the top of the box to provide ventilation in hot weather. The Bird House should be constructed preferably with ceramic coated screws for easy disassembly when cleaning and the ceramic will keep the screws from rusting.



Entrance holes should be near the top of the box and proportional to the size of the bird which will use the Bird House. A Bird Houses should have the interior walls roughened or grooved to assist the young in climbing to the opening.



Every Bird House should be placed at locations inaccessible to natural predators. The opening should face away from the prevailing wind, and if possible, the Bird House should be situated in partial sunlight. Subdued color tones are best, except for those placed in direct sunlight where white is needed to reflect the heat.



No Bird House should be placed near another. Some birds insist on territorial rights and conflicts could result in an empty Bird House. At least 1/4 acre should be allowed for most types of Bird House.



Different species of birds need houses constructed to suit their particular needs. The following link "Bird Houses" will take you back to the variouse type bird houses we offer here at Cedar Creek Woodshop. Browse the site and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to drop us a line.

Many individuals are fascinated by hummingbirds. So much so, that they will do anything in their power to attract these petite creatures to their yards. So what is the best way to attract these wee feathered friends?



Here are some tips to help make your home a hummingbird hot spot:



What Do Hummingbirds Eat?



Hummingbirds usually feed off flower nectar and sugar water that is left out for them in birdfeeders. They also feed off of small insects like ants, slugs and spiders. If you really want to attract hummingbirds to your yard, make sure your bird feeder is always filled with nectar and sugar water.



What Should My Hummingbird Feeder or House Look Like?



It is a well-known fact that hummingbirds are attracted to the color red. That being said, if the feeder you already have isn’t red get out your paint brush or stick a large red bow on it to get their attention. The best hummingbird feeders have perches for the birds to stand on while they feed. The holes in hummingbird feeders are just big enough for the little guys to fit their heads in, but they’re too small for squirrels and other larger animals so they can’t steal the food.



Refrain from painting your hummingbird feeder or house yellow because bees and wasps are attracted to these colors and also enjoy the taste of sweet nectar. You’ll want to keep insects as far away from your hummingbird feeders and houses as possible.



What Materials Should Hummingbird Houses or Feeders be made of?



Hummingbird feeders and houses are usually made of acrylic or glass. They are also available in wood and plastic; however these do not work as effectively and may cause harm to the birds (slivers and cuts). Hummingbird houses and feeders come in a variety of sizes and shapes and usually contain numerous feeding areas throughout the feeder.



Where Should I Put My Hummingbird Feeder?



Ideally, a hummingbird feeder should be hung near a garden with bright flowers and plants. A flowery location is most likely to attract the attention of hummingbirds. For your viewing pleasure, you may want to hang your feeder in a place that can be easily seen from your home. For example a hummingbird feeder hung in front of a window can be admired all day.



How Much Do Hummingbird Feeders Cost?



The styles and designs differ so much that it’s difficult to determine a specific price. Hummingbird feeders and houses can cost anywhere from $10 to $50 - depending on the style, design and features.

There is estimated to be over 100 billion individual wild birds on earth, and each one needs to eat certain amounts of food on a daily basis in order to survive. That’s where we come in! Birdfeeders are fun to make and are essential in order for birds to live. Bird houses can be made out of practically anything and are usually hung in different locations around your yard for birds to enjoy. Purchasing a bird feeder is another option, however this can be expensive and both methods serve practically the same purpose.

The following is a fun and easy way for children (or adults) to make a bird feeder:

What You Will Need:

•An empty milk or juice carton (any size will do)
•String (must be strong)
•Scissors
•Stapler
•Hole punch
•2 small sticks or wooden rods
•Bird seed
•Markers, paint or anything which can be used to decorate the carton. Ensure the paint is water based not to hurt your feathered friends and try not to use anything that can be potentially dangerous to swallow.

Directions:

1.Wash and dry the carton thoroughly.

2.Decorate your carton however you would like.

3.Using your scissors cut a square in each side of the carton (a square big enough to fit at least the head of a bird).

4.Using your hole punch (or your scissors) make a small hole below each square.

5.Push your sticks or rods through the holes from one side of the carton to the other (the sticks will form a “t”).

6.Fill the bottom of your carton with bird seed.

7.Punch a hole (or two if you like) in the top of your carton.

8.Hang your finished feeder to a tree branch with string.

Although these bird feeders will not last forever (or even close), they are a fun, inexpensive way for children to learn about birds and the importance of caring for our wildlife.

he fascinating behavior of Lovebirds make them among the
most interesting pet bird.

Lovebirds are so named from the way they sit close to each
other, not because they are in love with each other. Lovebirds
can and do mate for life, but it doesn't happen every time.

Lovebirds are social birds and should be kept in pairs.

They are very active and curious birds and can even be quite
aggressive at times. They can chatter all day long with a
sometimes very shrill sound.

Lovebirds are native to Africa and a few nearby islands. In
their native habitat, they are found usually in small flocks
of 10 to 20 pairs.

Lovebirds are of the class Aves, the genus Agapornis and
members of the Psittaciformes, or family of parrots.

Agapornis comes from the Greek words: Agape meaning love,
and ornis meaning bird.

Lovebirds typically live from 10 to 15 years depending a
great deal on the care they are given, some lovebirds have
been known to live to be 20 in captivity.

There are 9 species of lovebirds, of which 8 are available
as pets. They are not related to the South American parrotlets.

Sexually Dimorphic

1. Abyssinian Lovebird
2. Redfaced Lovebird
3. Madagascar Lovebird (Grayheaded)

Sexually Monomorphic (Similar)

1. Black cheeked Lovebired (Blackfaced)
2. Fischer's Lovebird
3. Masked Lovebird (Black Masked or Yellow collared)
4. Nyasa Lovebird (Lilian's)
5. Peachfaced Lovebird (Rosyfaced)

Characterized by Eye Rings:

Without Eye Rings:

1. Madagascar
2. Redfaced
3. Peachfaced
4. Abyssinian

With Eye Rings

1. Masked
2. Fischers
3. Nyasa
4. Black cheeked

What To Look For In A Healthy Lovebird

1. Active, alert and curious disposition
2. 4 well formed toes, 2 forward and 2 backward, nails must
be complete
3. Bright, round eyes
4. Nostrils clear of discharge
5. Feathers lay tight against the body
6. Smooth beak that closes completely

What To Avoid In A Healthy Lovebird

1. A bird that sits huddled in a corner or on the floor
2. A bird with feathers fluffed up
3. Deformed toes
4. Vent fouled with feces or badly stained
5. Signs of weeping or runny eyes
6. Excessive plucking or excessive missing of feathers
7. Bald spots
8. A squeak, wheezing or other abnormality when breathing
9. Nervous behavior
10. Lethargic behavior
11. Dull or lifeless feathers
12. A bird too large for it's normal size (birds can and do
get fat)
13. Nasal discharge

If you are a first time or novice lovebird owner, don't choose
a bird that you think may be sick, choose the healthiest bird
you can find. Many sicknesses can be cured, but better to leave
these birds for experienced owners. Don't buy a sick lovebird
because you feel sorry for it.

If possible get a certificate of health from the breeder or
pet shop guaranteeing that a replacement will be made if the
lovebird becomes sick or won't breed.

Lovebirds are not rare, there are a lot of them around to choose
from. So take your time and select only birds that you really
like the coloring and personality of.

Keeping Lovebirds as Pets

Lovebirds should be kept in pairs, one female and one male.
They very much enjoy each others company, although don't
be alarmed if they have occasional spats with each other.

If a pair of lovebirds constantly fight, then it's best to
find each of them another mate. If you're buying birds from
a breeder, make sure the breeder will exchange birds if
they are not compatable.

As a general rule, only one pair of birds should be kept
per cage. Keep one or more cages far enough apart from each
other so they do not allow birds to be able to peck at each
other.

When introducing new birds to a home with pre-existing birds,
the new birds may not always be welcomed readily.

Lovebird Behavior

Lovebirds need exercise out of their cages daily.

Remember: Birds Love to Fly

Being cooped up in a cage all the time is not healthy for
them, physically or emotionally. Birds kept in a cage will
often sit on a perch and flap their wings incessantly.

Lovebirds need between 10 to 12 hours of rest a night. Do
not keep your birds in rooms with televisions or other noisy
devices when it's time for the birds to roost. Total darkness
is not advised either, use a small 7 watt bulb in the room
to provide enough night light for the bird to find it's
perch and drink or feed if needed.

Keep all electrical wires, extension cords, etc, completely
hidden and unavailable to the birds.

Never use Kerosene or similar type heaters that give off fumes.
Coal and wood stoves are no nos. No matter how hard you may'
try, a wood burner will emit fumes and smoke into your home
that may kill your lovebird. If you have a home with a wood
burner completely isolate a room only for your birds and
use an infrared or electric heater.


A fairly constant 80 degrees Farenheit temperature is about
right for lovebirds.

It's not a good idea to keep finches, cockatiels, rosellas,
or budgies with lovebirds

Article intro:
In the 1970’s, the Cormorant was nearly wiped out from existence when its habitat was loaded with toxic chemicals. With very little control with the use of toxic chemicals in that decade. The wildlife environment was being contaminated. The bald eagle was also nearly wiped out from eating contaminated food (fish) during this period.

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Cormorant Overabundance in Wisconsin
by Kevin Doberstein
Copyright Protected 2005

What is a Cormorant?

The double-crested cormorant is just a bit more than two feet long on average with a wingspan of about four feet. Its color is dark brown to black feathers and has a long hooked bill. The males and females look quite similar. They are a migrating traveler from the Alaskan coast to Mexico. It loves to eat fish. It tends to live in a freshwater habitat.

In the 1970’s, it was nearly wiped out from existence when its habitat was loaded with toxic chemicals. With very little control with the use of toxic chemicals in that decade. The wildlife environment was being contaminated. The bald eagle was also nearly wiped out from eating contaminated food (fish) during this period.

Finally people started to realize the fact that dumping these chemicals in mother earth was not a good idea. Now we have to work to clean father sky from acid rain.

Rebounding Cormorant.

In the early 1970’s, there were about 130 remaining. Since then the cormorant population exploded to nearly 40,000 pairs!

With the huge increase of the cormorant, fishing sportsmen are saying they are excessively eating the game fish in the Green Bay, Wisconsin area waters. Particularly the Yellow Perch. Environmentalists claim that invasive zebra muzzles and white perch are also taking a toll on Yellow Perch. Also the increase of game fish like walleye is consuming their share. Because the cormorant are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, a federal permit had to be obtained in 2004 to try to control the birds in the Green Bay area waters. A total of 436 cormorants were killed in 2004. They all had fish in them from eating according to the officials. (What were they expecting from a fish eating bird, apples or oranges?)

Wisconsin legislature moves into action.

Because of the request of the sportsmen, Bill 486 was created. This bill reads as follows, “the management of double-crested cormorants and granting rule-making authority.

Analysis by the Legislative Reference Bureau
This bill requires the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to, in cooperative with federal agencies, administer a program to control and manage double-crested cormorants. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service of the U.S. Department of the Interior has issued an order that applies to many states, including Wisconsin, which authorizes the states to control and manage double-crested cormorants that are causing damage to fish, plants, wildlife, and their habitats. This bill requires DNR to administer the program in a manner that complies with federal order.”

The hooligans. Flying around and eating fish.

Some of the effects of too many cormorants are:

 Destroying trees and vegetation.

 Pushing other birds out.

 Eating to many game fish.

Some of the benefits of the cormorants are:

 They are an indicator when a habitat area is healthy.

 They can help keep the fish population in balance.

 They can be enjoyable to watch.

The Department of Natural Resources and the Wisconsin Wildlife Federation want the state to take action to avoid lawlessness actions.


About the Author:
Kevin Doberstein enjoys wildlife and nature while hiking in the Wisconsin great outdoors. He is also the owner of Nature Boy Natural Images. This web site displays outdoor wildlife and nature photography. He also has the Wisconsin Outdoor Recreation Blog. The Wisconsin Outdoor Recreation and Wildlife Blog is for promoting and protecting nature and wildlife resources in the state of Wisconsin.

Yes! You can attract hummingbirds to your home. Even if you live in the middle of the city, and even if you've never had any luck getting them to come in the past.

Try one or more of these tips, and you should begin to see hummers around your yard soon.

Plant A Hummingbird Garden:

One good way to attract Hummingbirds is by planting a Hummingbird garden. In addition to providing them a natural diet, a hummer garden is an excellent way to attract birds to your nearby feeder since hummingbirds feed by sight on regularly followed routes. This is called traplining. Their inquisitive nature will quickly lead them to investigate any possible new source of food.

Hummers, like most birds, have virtually no sense of smell, the flowers that attract them tend to have little or no fragrance, apparently directing their resources instead toward high visibility and nectar production.

Some plants to consider that will attract Hummingbirds include:

- Azalea
- Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)
- Cape Honeysuckle
- Manzanita
- Mimosa
- Red Buckeye
- Coral Honeysuckle
- Cypress Vine
- Morning Glory
- Trumpet Creeper
- Bee Balm (Monarda)
- Cardinal Flower
- Columbine
- Coral Bells
- Four O'Clocks
- Hummingbird Mint (Agastache)
- Penstemon
- Yucca
- Fuchsia
- Jewelweed
- Petunia
- Shrimp Plant

Note: none of these need to be red in color although the color red is attractive to hummingbirds.

If you’re in doubt as to whether any of these will flourish in your area check with your local nursery.

You should avoid using any pesticides at all in your Hummingbird garden. The insects that you would kill off serve as a good source of protein for hummingbirds, and can also sicken or kill the birds if ingested.

Set up Hummingbird Feeders:

If you use a feeder and make your own nectar, a few words of caution.

Never use honey or artificial sweeteners. Honey ferments easily, and can cause sores in a hummers mouth. Artificial sweeteners have no food value. DO NOT use red food coloring in your solution, as this could be harmful to your hummers. Most feeders have red on them and that should be enough.

Your hummingbird feeders needs to be cleaned, and nectar changed every 3-4 days. Even more often in hot weather.

If you see black spots inside your feeder this is mold and you will need to scrub it out with a good bottle brush, but if you can't reach it with a bottle brush you can add some sand with water and shake the feeder to remove the mold.

You should never use harsh detergent to clean your feeder. Rinse out each time you change your nectar with hot water, and if you do this on a regular basis you should not have a problem with mold inside the feeder. Don't fill the feeder more than half full, because they won't be able to drink it all before it will need to be changed.

It seems all hummingbird feeders available for purchase these days have red on them, but if you are in doubt that there is enough red, try tying a red ribbon on the feeder.

Another way to attract attention to your feeder is to place it among flowers that hummers like, or hang a basket of flowers nearby.

You will find that feeder activity slows as more flowers bloom in your yard. Do not panic! They prefer natural nectar over what we give them in our feeders, so they are still around, and you will see them at your feeders more often, as the blooms start to diminish.

If you live in the Eastern part of the United States, you’ll find you only have one type of hummingbird that will visit for the summer, and that is the Ruby-throated. They are very territorial and defend flowers and feeders within their favorite roost spot, so if you want to attract more than one hummer, try putting up 2 or 3 more feeders out of sight from each other. Perhaps on another side of your house.

Get more information and tips on attracting Hummingbirds by going to http://www.easyhow-to.com/hummingbirds.html

Happy humming birding!

Birds, just like other pets, have their own ways of
Communicating, or Bird Language.

Birds communicate to other birds and also communicate
to their owners, in a variety of ways. While all species
have their own unique methods of bird language, there
are many generalities.

Birds use their body, body parts and voices to express a
wide range of emotions.

Ways Birds Communicate

Barking
Some birds give out a type of bark when excited or when
trying to prove their dominance.

Beak Clicking
When a bird is clicking it's beak, it is trying to tell
others it is threatened or that it is protecting something.

Beak Grinding
When a bird grinds it's beak the bird is trying to communicate
it is feeling secure and content.

Beak Wiping
When a bird wipes it's beak the bird is trying to communicate
that he is aggravated or upset about something. Beak wiping
is also typically normal behavior for birds when they
are trying to clean the beak or dislodge something stuck
in it.

See Also Why Bird's Bite
http://petcaretips.net/bird-biting.html

Chattering
Some birds just like to talk, talk about anything; their
environment, how they feel, the state of the union....
so to communicate their thoughts, they chatter, sometimes
incessantly, sometimes loud, sometimes soft.

Young birds chirp or chatter when they want fed. Birds in
the wild often chatter as a warning sign to other birds that
something is not right in their environment, or as a call
to attract another bird's attention.

Crouching
If the bird is crouching with it's head toward the owner,
the birds wants to be petted or scratched.

If crouching with head down, relaxed body and raised wings,
the bird wants attention.

If crouching with head down, eyes pinning, flared tail feathers,
ruffled feathers, and a rigid body, the bird is giving
a warning to back off.

Flashing or Dilating Pupils
Flashing or dilating pupils the bird may be trying to communicate
aggression, excitement, nervousness, or pleasure.

Growling
Some birds communicate with a type of growl that means
back off mister and leave me alone.

Head Snaking
A bird that is shaking it's head from side to side means it is
excited.

Panting
A panting bird is overheated, overexerted and uncomfortable.

Purring
A bird can give a type of purr communicating the bird is
relaxed and content.

Singing
A bird sings when it is communicating a message to another
bird, perhaps as a mating call, or when it is content and
happy.

See Also: Why Birds Sing
http://petcaretips.net/why-bird-sings.html

Talking
A Bird talks when it is content and happy and wants to
send a message to the another bird or it's owner.

Tail Bobbing
When a bird bobs it's tail that may mean it's sick, but also
some birds bob their tails when they are talking or singing.

Tail Fanning
Tail fanning by a bird indicates it's unhappy about something
and may become aggressive

Tail Wagging
Just like dogs, tail wagging communicates that a bird is
content or happy.

Tongue Clicking
When a bird gives a rapid clicking of their tongue they
are trying to communicate friendliness or an invitation to be
friends.

Wing Drooping
A Bird will droop it's wings for several reasons.
It may have just taken a bath and it's holding the wings
down while drying. It may happen in young birds who have
not learned how to hold their wings. The bird may be
overheated and wanting to cool itself. The bird may be sick.

Wing Flipping
If a caged bird is flicking it's wings sharply, it is
communicating annoyance or fear. It could also mean the
bird has lost it's balance and is trying to correct itself,
if this is the case the wing flipping won't last long.

Wing and Body Quivering
Quivering wings and body means the bird is fearful of
something in it's immediate environment.

Wing Drumming
Birds drum their wings when they need exercise or out of
boredom. It may also communicate the bird is protecting it's
territory.

Whistling
When a bird whistles it is communicating that the bird feels
content, safe and is at ease in it's world.

Bird Feeders
The fastest way to a bird's heart is definitely through their
stomach. Put up a backyard bird feeder and birds will certainly
come to feed in your yard. Where you live determines what you'll
see because of differences in birds' range and habitat
preferences. As words spread about your feeder, the kinds of
birds and the size of crowd will increase. Even if you live in
the city where it seems pigeons and house sparrows are the only
birds on earth, you'll get surprise visitors that find your food
or stop in on migration.

Bird Feeder Basics
When you shop for bird feeders, you'll find your choices are
almost limitless. You may wonder how to decide what to buy. Here
are some hints.

Ease of use - The most important factor in choosing a feeder is
how easy it is to use - for both the owner and the birds. You
want a feeder that's easy to fill and that holds a reasonable
amount of seed. If you are just getting started, look for a
feeder that displays seed in full view because birds are
attracted by the sight of food and by the sight of other birds
eating. An open tray is great for starters.

Make sure your bird feeder has plenty of room for birds to eat
without protrusions or decorations getting in the way. Birds also
like a feeder with a raised ledge or perch that they can grasp
while eating.

Size - When birds come to a bird feeder, they want food, and they
wait it fast. Choose a main tray feeder that's big enough for at
least a dozen birds to eat at once. Supplement that with hopper-
and tube-type bird feeders. Domed feeders are great for small
birds like chickadees. Feeders inside wire cages give small birds
a place to eat and peace without competition from starlings or
other larger birds. Once you have one or two large bird feeder
you can add as many smaller feeders as you like.

Quality - Make sure your bird feeder is well made. A sturdy,
simple, but beautiful feeder costs more than you'd think. Expect
to pay $30 - $75 for a feeder that will last for years.

Tray (Platform) Feeders
A must have for any backyard is a simple wooden tray feeder. It's
big, it's easy to fill, and it accommodates several birds. The
other feeders pick up the overflow and they can be stocked with
treats. Cardinals, finches, jays, grosbeaks, bluebirds,
blackbirds, nuthatches, chickadees, titmice, and buntings all
prefer an open tray feeder. The only birds reluctant to us a tray
feeder mounted on a post are ground-feeding birds. A very low
tray on stumped legs will accommodate these birds, which include
native sparrows, quail, towhees, and doves. You can put any kind
of seed in a tray except for small Niger, lettuce, and grass
seeds, which are prone to blow away or get wasted. Platform
feeders are also good places to put out doughnuts, bread crumbs
and fruit.

Platform feeders with a roof are often called fly-through
feeders. One problem with tray feeders is that plenty of seed
gets kicked to the ground. Adding raised edges to a platform
feeder transforms it into tray feeder.

Tray feeders can be hung. A popular hanging model, the Droll
Yankees X-l Seed saver is protected by a dome to keep seed dry
and prevent squirrels from raiding. This feeder works especially
well as a mealworm feeder.

Hopper Feeders
Hopper-style bird feeders with plastic or glass enclosures that
dole out seed as they're needed, are an efficient choice because
seed is used as needed and large amounts aren't exposed to wet or
snowy weather, or kicked out by scratching birds. Many birds,
including chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, cardinals, jays, and
woodpeckers, eat eagerly at a hopper feeder. Make sure the tray
of a hopper-style bird feeder has enough room for more than two
or three birds to gather and eat, and check to see if the feeder
will be easy to clean if seed spoils in bad weather. Be
especially careful if you mount your hopper feeder permanently in
the garden. If the hopper or frame blocks the tray, the feeder
may be very hard to clean.

Hopper feeders are not always rectangular. They can be many-sided
or tubular, resembling a gazebo, lantern, or silo, and may be
called by those names. A popular round hopper design is the Sky
Cafe by Arundale, a hanging feeder made entirely of clear
polycarbonate. The hopper and feeding platform are protected by a
large, steeply sloped hood designed to detour squirrels. The idea
of a large dome above a feeder to protect it from squirrels is
incorporated in a number of feeder designs, including Droll
Yankees' Big Top.

One of the most significant innovations in hopper feeders has
been the "squirrel-proof" models created by Heritage Farms, such
as The Absolute II. Birds must sit on a rail to reach the seed
tray. The rail has a counterweight that can be adjusted so that a
squirrel's weight or that of a jay or blackbird will cause the
shield to lower in front of the tray.

Wire-Mesh Feeders
Perfect for holding shelled peanuts wire-mesh feeders are fun to
watch. Blue jays, woodpeckers, and chickadees can cling to the
mesh and pick seeds out one at a time. Squirrels can pick seeds
too, but one seed at a time can be painfully slow. Wire-mesh
feeders work equally well dispensing black oil sunflower seeds
and most other larger seeds. Small, round millet grains pour
through the openings and are not a good choice for these
feeders.

Most commercial wire-mesh feeders are tubular, but some are
shaped like hoppers and may be attached to a platform where birds
can perch to feed, rather than having to cling to the mesh.

Mesh bags, often called thistle socks, are also available for
dispensing Niger seed. Refillable socks made of fabric and
disposable ones made of plastic are available. Squirrels or rain
can quickly ruin thistle socks, so hang them in a protected
place.

Window Feeders
Years ago, before the fancy screens and storm windows, many
people simply scattered a handful of crumbs or seeds for the
birds on their windowsills. You can mount a simple shallow tray
feeder on the outside of a window, mounting it like a window box
(but higher and closer to the pane). You can use wooden or metal
brackets that attach below the sill or on the sill. Perfect for
kids and indoor cats - many window feeders attach with suction
cups. Typically made of clear plastic, models by Aspects,
Duncraft and K-Feeders are among those available.

The most popular window feeders are made by the Birding Company.
A one-way mirror allows the feeding activity to be observed while
keeping the birds from being disturbed. The feeders need to be
placed in a sunny spot for the one-way mirror to work. The feeder
can be cleaned and food replaced from inside the house.

Tube Feeders
Simple tube feeders are a perfect example of form matching
function. They're self-contained, so seed stays dry; they hold a
good quantity of seed, so they don't need refilling too often;
and they can accommodate several birds at one time. Not all tube
feeders are created equal though. You should invest a few extra
dollars in the more expensive feeders such as Duncraft or Droll
Yankees. The tube itself is sturdier, the feeding holes are
designed better so there's less spillage or feeds as birds eat,
and the heavier metal used on top and bottom makes the feeder
much more stable. Being heavier they don't swing as easily in the
wind scattering seed on the ground.

Tube feeders are welcomed by goldfinches, purple finches, pine
siskins, chickadees, and house finches, who seem to know they can
eat in peace there without being disturbed by the bigger birds.
The size of the hole (port) determines whether you have a feeder
that should be filled with Niger, birdseed mix or sunflower
seeds.

There are two styles of tube feeders. One is designed with small
feeding ports for the tiny Niger seeds; the other has larger
ports for such seeds as black oil sunflower, safflower, or mixed
seed.

Not all tube feeders are cylinders. There are tube feeders with
three, four, or more sides. It is the idea of feeding ports built
into the elongated seed container that makes a feeder a tube
feeder.

The Droll Yankees A6 Tube Feeder is still a top seller. Droll
Yankee feeders have a lifetime guarantee. Other variations
include Perky Pet's Upside-Down Thistle Feeder. Perches are
placed above the feeding ports so that seed can be accessed only
by finches that can feed upside down, a design that excludes
house finches.

Two or three tubes are sometimes ganged together, as the Opus
TopFlight Triple Tube Feeder. With a total of 12 ports, it can
feed more birds than a single tube, and it also has the option of
being filled with a different seed type in each tube.

Most tube feeders are made of transparent plastic, but Vari-Craft
makes particularly attractive tube feeders of white PVC. Ports
are made of a hard plastic. A squirrel-proof model is available
with stainless steel ports.

Most tube feeders can be fitted with round trays underneath that
catch spillage from birds like finches, which are notoriously
messy eaters. The tray serves double duty as a small platform
feeder for such birds as cardinals and doves, which benefit from
the slung seed.

Tube feeders are sometimes placed inside a wire-mesh cage for
protection from squirrels. Cages also keep large birds like
grackles from perching on a tray and reaching up to the feeder
ports.

Nectar Feeders
Sweet sugar water, or nectar, is a huge draw for hummingbirds.
Put up a nectar feeder and you're practically guaranteed to get
hummers. The birds search for red and deep orange-red flowers,
andanything that color will bring them in for a closer look. Your
nectar feeder may also attract other birds with a sweet tooth,
including orioles, house finches, and woodpeckers. In the wild
these birds would satisfy that craving with real nectar from
flowers, or a sip of sugary tree sap or fruit juice. The sugar
boost gives them quick calories and the energy needed to live.

As with other bird feeders, look for a nectar feeder that's easy
to fill and easy to clean. Make sure you can remove the base to
clean out the feeding holes. Bee guards of gridded plastic over
the feeder openings are a necessity unless you like to watch
constant battles between wasps and hummingbirds.

Suet Feeders
Suet feeders are not nearly as complex as some seed feeders. They
can be as simple as a mesh sack - the kind often used for onions
and potatoes. Toss a chunk of raw suet in an empty mesh sack and
hang it on a tree trunk or from a branch or pole.

A popular way of presenting suet is in homemade suet logs.
Perches are not necessary and if used will attract grackles and
starlings. Woodpeckers and small clinging birds can get a grip on
the rough wood. Stuffed with suet, these logs have woodpeckers as
regular visitors. Standing dead trees can be drilled and filled
like giant suet logs. If meant to attract woodpeckers, a suet
feeder is likely to be found most quickly if it is attached
initially to a tree trunk. Once the woodpeckers have found it,
the feeder can be moved to other spots and the birds will
follow.

Suet cages are sometimes combined with bird feeders. Health
Manufacturing makes a beautiful redwood hopper feeder with suet
cages at either end, the Classic Suet 'n Seed Feeder. Woodlink
makes a similar model with a copper roof.

Clipping a pet birds wings is a common grooming procedure and is necessary for training as well as for your pets safety. You might feel like you are being mean to the bird, but the fact is that it does not hurt the bird and can help to keep him from flying out of an open window or door and becoming lost. Most pet birds would not be able to survive in the wild, especially if your climate is not one that is natural for the bird.

You can clip your birds wings yourself at home, but it is best if you take him into the vet or pet shop and ask if they can show you the proper way to do it before trying it yourself!

Do not try to clip your birds wing until he is very tame and used to you holding him, otherwise the procedure will be very traumatic for you both. You need to make sure that your bird trusts you enough to hold him and open up his wings. Until your relationship has reached this stage, it is best to have this done by a professional.

Once your have your birds trust and are ready to clip the wings yourself, take your bird out of the cage and hold him for a while. You may need 2 people for this as it can be kind of awkward with only 2 hands. Spread the birds wing out and hold it out with one hand, have your scissors ready with the other hand.

You want to cut only the longest feathers – the one on the very bottom layer. Cut halfway up from the bottom of the wing in a line that is parallel to the wing. Some people leave the very last feather intact so when the birds wings are folded in, you can’t really tell that they are clipped.

This should be a quick and painless procedure. After you have clipped his wing, your bird will still be able to fly, but not for any distance. When he does fly, he will most likely, have a downward motion to the flight, so if he starts off at a high spot, he’ll able to fly to a lower spot with no problem. Make sure that there are no other animals in the house that could hurt him if he lands on the table or floor as he may not be able to fly away from them to protect himself.

Normally when you think Safari you think Big 5. The spotlight or limelight is traditionally on lions, cheetah or elephants. But when do the birds get some of the attention?

With outlandish names like the Chestnut-Vented Tit-Babbler and the Jameson's Firefinch, just imagine what some of these eccentric buzzards actually look like? What strange frequencies dart from their beaks and why is it that people call them by such far-out names?

The Timbavati Game Reserve is perfectly situated in the Lowveld area where more than 500 species of birds are waiting to cripple your eyeballs. Timbavati is part of a migration route for a broad variety of birds flying in from the far reaches of Africa and the tropical regions. Large populations of the Raptor family are there to greet them whenever they land. These raptors include - Wahlberg's Eagle, Black-breasted Snake Eagle and the Bateleur Eagle.

It has been said that overseas visitors may well see more species on their first day in Timbavati than they would have seen in their entire life in their own country.
We are however going to be focusing our lenses on Timabavati's most popular beaks, the likes of which can only be found in this particular area. This grouping of birds represents the bird sightings most desired by Timbavati's visitors. Known around the area as the Big 6 of birding, they are usually found at the top of every birdwatcher’s list.

The Most Popular Birds on Timbavati's Sightings List

1. The Kori Bustard
2. Martial Eagle
3. Saddle-billed Stork
4. Lappet-faced Vulture
5. Ground Hornbill and the
6. Pel’s Fishing-Owl

If you’re looking To Find These Tricky Characters, Remember This:

- You don’t look for birds as much as you listen for them.
- You can’t be a good birder without developing a little patience.
- “The early bird gets the worm” is a clichéd expression based on fact, so start out early.

If you're intent on spotting all of these birds you'll need to spend at least a day scouting thick riverside forest, open bushveld and the river banks of Timabavati.

Promising areas include the various bird hides designed specifically for birding and especially the picnic sites in the area that attracts birds for obvious reasons.

Tips To Point You In The Right Direction

The Kori Bustard is strictly terrestrial and prefers wooded grassland areas and dry savannas; its feeding time is in the early mornings making it the best time to see one.

The Martial eagle is the largest of the African eagles and is found throughout the African savanna, in any type of terrain from mountains to flat plains, the edge of deserts to wooded country. This bird has been known to take down whole impala.

The Saddle-billed Stork can normally found near rivers. Look for their large stick nests in the tops of tall trees.

The Lappet-faced Vulture also resides in stick nests located at the top of short trees. They prefer open, arid habitats. They can be found fighting over bones near the site of a kill.

The Ground Hornbill prefers steppes and savannas with fairly low grass growth, which makes their search for food easier. They have very large territories of about 100 sq. kilometers.

The Pel’s Fishing Owl is the rarest sighting of all because of its nocturnal habits and restriction to large watercourses. A good time to catch this one is during the night, preferably on a night drive. As you know, they are fishing owls so near water is the best place to start looking.

The birds mentioned above are easy to identify but are by no means the least of the birds you will encounter in the Timbavati Game Reserve. More than 500 hundred species offer the discerning eye of an ornithologist and a layman alike. Enjoy the sights and sounds of a Birding Safari in Timbavati. It’s worth coming here just for the birdlife.

It’s early in May a beautiful fairly warm day so I’ve decided to enjoy it and sit on the front porch.

While relaxing in a rocking chair with my eyes closed, just enjoying the sun and early warmth I begin to hear a sound off in the distance.

At first it’s not recognizable, sounds almost like a hum from a model airplane.

As it begins to get louder I’m beginning to think I know what the source of this strange noise is.

I open my eyes and sure enough just as I thought there is a small green colored Hummer hovering right at the edge of the porch – coincidentally right where a feeder normally hangs – now I’m not certain but he appears to be looking right at me like he’s trying to tell me “Hey, I’m back, where’s the food”.

Every year it’s the same, they show up around Mothers Day and every year I’m always a little surprised to see them and of course not prepared.

Well so much for my relaxing afternoon, it’s time to get out the feeders, clean them and make up some food then get them hung.

And so begins another season with these marvelous entertaining little birds.

Attracting Hummingbirds:

Hummers have a good memory they can remember where to find food sources from previous years. However in order for them to remember your home you will first need to let them know about it.

There are two ways to accomplish this, first by planting or hanging flowers that will attract them, second is to have an additional food source such as a hanging feeder that you keep filled with a syrup solution.

Flowers that have red to orange blossom colors are known to attract them but they will visit any color if they discover sufficient nectar.

Blossom shape is also important as this little birds beak is long and tapered, so downward-hanging blossom – Honeysuckle is a good example – are a favorite.

Several other varieties are as follows. These particular flowers are geared for the Northeast – where I happen to live – so you will want to check within your region for appropriate blooms.

Perennials:
·Bee Balm
·Salvia
·Foxglove
·Lilac
·Hollyhock
·Forsythia

There are several Annuals that will also satisfy their little palettes.

·Fuchsia
·Impatiens
·Petunia

As these are favorites in the use of hanging baskets each summer try hanging several around your home. The most common place of course is on your front porch or on hooks around a deck or patio; another idea is to hang some right from tree branches. I’ve done this and not only do the Hummers like them; it also adds color and interest out in the yard.

Putting Up A Feeder:

From elaborately decorated glass to simple plastic there are numerous types of feeders to choose from.

I will tell you from experience, I’ve used both – the decorated one just because it was pretty, the Hummers really didn’t care – and I ended up with a simple teardrop shaped clear glass container with perches around the base, it was easy to tell when the solution was low and simple to take apart.

Where to hang your feeder or feeders – once you start, guaranteed you’ll have to have more than one – is up to you and the layout of your home and yard.

If you have an open porch this is a great place or from tree branches. Most people look for spots where the birds can be seen; after all half the fun comes from watching these little dynamites. Feeders that mount to windows with suction cups are another alternative.

What To Fill Them With:

Two choices here, pre-made solution or hand made, the choice is up to you. I personally have done both but if you prefer to make your own the following is the standard recipe.

1)One part ordinary white cane sugar to four parts water.

2)Boil the water is you wish however it is not really necessary.

3)Store unused syrup in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

If you choose to make your own solution, do not add honey as it ferments very rapidly and can be fatal to the birds. Also the addition of red food coloring is not necessary, they will find the food without it.

Maintenance of Feeder:

Sugar and water mixed together will ferment – not good for the birds – which limits it’s usability, this can happen very quickly during hot summer months.

Therefore when temperatures range between 60-85 degrees – or higher – the mixture really should be changed about every three days, of course if you happen to have a few Hummingbirds visiting your outdoor diner then you will be refilling about this amount of time anyway. If you should notice any cloudiness in the mixture change it right away.

Before refilling feeder be sure to thoroughly clean the feeder with warm soapy water and rinse very thoroughly. This is where having a feeder that comes apart easily is important.

Attracting these wonderful little birds is not only entertaining it’s also beneficial as they also eat insects.

Plant some Bee Balm, hang a container filled with a beautiful Fuchsia plant and last but not least put up a feeder.

You’ll find that having your peaceful afternoon snooze on the porch interrupted is worth it.

If you would like to learn more about the Hummingbird the following web site are filled with lots of great information.

The Hummingbird Society -www.hummingbirdsociety.org

The Hummingbird Web Site - www.portalproductions.com

This is a share ware article. Give this article away for free on your site, or include it as part of any paid package as long as the entire article is left intact including this notice. Copyright © 2005 bonnie carrier.

The oldest historical mention of hummingbirds likely dates back to the Taino Native Americans, who were reportedly the first humans to greet Columbus when he landed in America. The Taino believe that hummingbirds are the spreaders of life on Earth, and their warriors were known as Colibir, or Hummingbird warriors, because they are a peaceful bird that will defend their territory with the heart of an eagle.



How long they have been in America is unknown, but they have delighted bird watchers for many years, with their quick dashes into the garden, and the shine of the sun on brilliant feathers. While there actually are duller colored birds, the ruby-throated hummingbird is the most commonly recognized for its iridescent feathering, and dazzlig ruby-red throat. The color though, is not all it seems.



Hummingbirds get their unusual coloring from the fact that not all feathers are pigmented, or colored. In the duller colors, including the Rufous Hummingbird, the brown hue is actual pigment in the feather structure. In the ruby-throated variety, light refracting through the feather segments, breaking it up much like a prism would. Only certain levels of color will be seen by the human eye, and that color will change with every movement of the feather, or angle of the light striking it.



This is one of the features that makes them so charming to watch as they flit around a garden or feeder. Hummingbirds are very fast, traveling at an average 25 miles per hour, with wingbeats of anywhere from 10-15 per second in the Giant Hummingbird, up to 80 per minute by the Amethyst Woodstar. The ruby-throated hummer falls into the middle range, at about 53 beats per second.



To sustain such rapid and prolonged activity, the hummingbird’s heart must beat accordingly. For birds that are hot, or sleepy, that can be as low as 50-180 beats per minute, but a heart rate of an amazing 1360 beat per minute has been recorded in a Blue-Throated Hummingbird.



All this activity requires a humming bird to eat almost continually, to fuel the activity that will maintain its 105-109F body heat. That means dining as many as 15 times an hour, on high-energy food. In volume, they consume up to eight times their body weight a day. But reduce the nectar to a solid by eliminating the water, and it would amount to their own bodyweight.



A hummingbird can starve to death in as little as two hours, if still active. That makes rescue of birds trapped in garages or other enclosed areas, imperative within a short time. At night, their “thermal generators” shut down as they rest, and allow their body temperature to drop, so that less energy is used up while they sleep.



If you enjoy watching these delightful little birds, and are also an enthusiastic gardener, why not plant clumps of flowers or bushes, to bring them into your yard? Hummingbirds are creatures of habit, and will develop their own paths to food, checking them frequently and on a daily basis. Once they find out you have goodies, they’ll return over and over. Other hummers will follow, and you may then get to see hummingbird behavior at its worst, as they dive at each other to protect their food sources.



Good choices of food producing plants for hummingbirds includes such trees or bushes as Azaleas, Mimosa, Weigela, Cape Honeysuckle and Flowering Quince. Another semi-permanent attraction is a perennial bed with Bee Balm, Columbine, Lupine, Coral Bells and Canna. You can also plant a wide range of annuals like Fuschia, Impatiens, Petunias and Firespike, but consider growing some of your own plants from seed, as many flowers that are nursery grown, tend not to have as much nectar. Hummers will be overjoyed to discover this bonanza of blooms, and the tiny bugs that constitute the protein source of their diet.



To make sure you enjoy these little feathered friends for the whole season, hang some hummingbird feeders around your patio or gardens. But make sure there is a bit of distance between them, to avoid the squabbles, which can be quite a sight!



Because hummers are attracted to red flowers, you’ll find many of the hummingbird feeders available, are also colored red. This isn’t an absolute necessity, but it can be a bright spot in your garden. And the feeders come in all kinds of charming shapes from a hanging bunch of grapes, to a giant strawberry.



Commercial powdered “food” formula is available, but you can easily make your own by combining one part sugar to four parts water, and boiling it for two minutes, then cooling and storing in the fridge. Never use honey, which can ferment, or red dye, which can be harmful to the birds.



Only fill your hummingbird feeders to the one-third or halfway mark, as it would take many birds to empty the contents, and the feeders will need cleaning every few days to prevent the occurrence of mold. Wash in mild dish detergent, with no more than 10% bleach, and rinse several times. If you have mold inside the feeder, and can’t reach it with a bottle brush, put some sand in with the water, and swish that back and forth, until the mold is rubbed off.



Hummingbird Trivia

• The hummingbird is so small, that an insect, the Praying Mantis is its natural enemy.
  
• They are the only bird that can hover, and fly backwards as well as straight up or down
  
• Hummingbirds can’t walk
  
• The average life of a hummingbird is 3-4 years, although one specimen was caught in 1976 in Colorado, banded, and captured again in 1987
  

If you are the type of person who enjoys all aspects of nature, and loves to see it right at your door or outside the window, consider hanging some bird feeders that are suitable to the feathered population of your region.



A little research at the library or over the Internet, will tell you what type of birds are likely to frequent your area in the various seasons. Once you know that, you can look up their dietary preferences, and from there you’ll be able to choose bird feeders that will deliver the appropriate blend of foods, in an easily accessible way. Bear in mind that bird feeders which are filled with large size seeds, or fragments of corn and peanuts, must have an adequate opening to dispense the contents, or the birds will realize they can’t get at the food, and will go elsewhere.



Another consideration, is where to place your feeder in terms of height, and location relative to the house or the “traffic” of humans or pets. Some birds that become accustomed to the presence of humans, will feed regardless of your presence, but more easily startled species may refuse to come down out of trees if there is too much activity around the feeding station.



There are all kinds of beautiful and decorative bird feeders for species that peck their food from the ground. These include charming figures such as angels, fairies or cherubs, holding out bowls, or the large blossom of a flower, which serves as the dish for cracked corn, and other feeds.



Birds that prefer not to light while they dine, will appreciate one of the hanging bird feeders that you can suspend from a tree branch, or a special upright bracket attached to a patio railing. You’ll find a wide variety of shapes and styles, in colorful stained glass, and shaped like gazebos, barns, or natural wood logs. But again, keep in mind the type of seed you’ll be putting in it. There can be quite a difference in what is appropriate to the species of birds in your area, ranging in size from the very tiny thistle seed known as niger, which is fed to finches, and the larger, black and white striped sunflower seeds favored by Blue Jays, and other big birds. If you want to avoid the problems that seed size can cause, you might opt for the open hanging dish, which come in charming designs like a large flower blossom, a lily pad with a frog, or a decorative arrangement of leaves, with a miniature gazing ball.



Of course, one of the most delightful birds you can attract through the type of flowers you plant, as well as extra feeders, is the hummingbird. These tiny, and exquisitely colored birds, will dash and flit around your garden, adding to the brightness and activity in your yard. Hummingbird feeders are generally made of plastic, to avoid the breakage possible with glass. Since they feed on the natural nectar of flowers, what you put in humming bird feeders is not seed, but a solution that you can buy powdered, or make yourself. It’s as simple as boiling 1 cup of water, and ¼ cup of sugar. You can make larger batches and store it in the fridge, because the feeders will need changing every few days to avoid fermentation and spoilage of the solution. Wash in a solution of dish soap and 10% bleach, and rinse completely before refilling. One tip to help avoid spoilage, is to hang your humming bird feeders out of direct sunlight.



Whichever type of bird feeders you choose to brighten up the yard or garden, you’ll reap the rewards with hours of entertainment.

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If you love hummingbirds, keep your garden, yard, and
property clear of weeds. Especially burdock. The prickly
seedheads of common burdock can trap and kill hummingbirds.

During September, 1998, three hummingbirds were caught and
died in Rock Creek Park in Washington, D.C. A fourth
hummingbird was rescued by bird watchers.

According to National Park Service biologists, the burrs act
like Velcro. The barbed points on the burrs cling
steadfastly to fur, clothing, skin, feathers--almost
anything that comes near.

As the tiny birds thrash around trying to free themselves
they become even more entrapped.

While not much has been written about the subject, a
consulting ornithologist in Burnaby British Columbia reports
that the weed does occasionally claim the lives of small
birds and even brown bats.

Burdock, also known as Cockle Burr, is a biennial plant
which can grow to nine feet in height. Other names include
Fox's Clote, Thorny Burr, Beggar's Buttons, Cockle Buttons,
Love Leaves, Burr Seed, Clothburr, Turkey Burrseed and many
others.

Burdock was imported from Europe and is now widely
distributed in waste areas, abandoned farms, or any
uncultivated area in North America. It can also appear in
gardens and lawns.

The plant produces a rosette of large leaves, produces 15 to
40 or more pink or lavender flowers, and has a taproot of up
to 40 inches in length.

The plant must be eliminated before the flowers ripen and
form the brown prickly burrs which spread the seeds.
Selective or spot herbicide treatment isn't always effective
because of it's deep taproot. Pulling up or digging the
plant is the most effective but the entire taproot must be
removed. The sooner this is done the easier it is to do.
Smaller plants can be dug up using a standard garden fork or
dandelion digger, and larger ones using a long-handled bulb
planter.

For more on natural, organic weed control visit:

http://www.apluswriting.net/garden/weeds.htm

By Tanin Eh Boon from www.pet-cockatiel.com
Cockatiel bird have been kept and breed successfully in many countries all around the world. Cockatiel bird can be considered as the most widely kept parrot other than parakeet or budgie (budgerigar). Lots of research or expert of cockatiel emerge and many keeper have lots and lots of knowledge of cockatiel bird and their care.

I prepared this topic especially for newcomer birds enthusiast who still unable to make the decision about what species of parrot that they would like to buy. Well, there are lots and lots of parrot out there in the market. Some is very good for petting but some may not. However, for many people who haven’t own any pet parrot or any pet birds, many will feel that parrot will be the same, with good personality, very friendly, good talker, a cuddle creature and a good friend when we are lonely. However, in fact it is not. Some parrot may be very nippy (bite) and rude, some parrot will tend to attached to only one person (and rude to other people), some parrot may not talk at all, while some other species may not give permission to anyone to cuddle them.

Okay, now we may go the some of the reason why in my opinion, cockatiel is one of the best pet bird for the beginner. Having said this, I didn’t mean that beginner should only keep cockatiel or cockatiel is the only choices – the pet bird enthusiast actually have other option, lots of them but that is only if they are willing to learn more about the species that they choose or interested in.

Price
Price can become major obstacle for the pet bird or pet parrot enthusiast to own their dream bird. Since price of a parrot can range from few buck up until ten of thousand dollar, price is sometime a critical in deciding which parrot that the new comer should choose.

In Malaysia and I believed it happen to many other countries all around the world, price of a cockatiel is not expensive. Price may be different based on the colour mutation of the cockatiel and whether the cockatiel is handfed or parent fed. Normally parent fed cockatiel is cheaper than handfed cockatiel. This is because for handfed cockatiel, the breeder have to spent more time, effort and cost to feed the baby, while for parent fed cockatiel, the breeder didn’t have to put extra effort to the bird and definitely they will have lower cost.

If we compared price of a pet cockatiel ( a good, healthy handfed baby cockatiel which can make good pet) with other species with similar quality (healthy and handfed baby birds) of the bigger parrot , the price is totally different. For the beginner, I think the price of a pet cockatiel is reasonable (even it is not the cheapest).

Noise level
Personally I think all parrot will make some noise. Some of them will have rough squak while some other may have melodies whistling. However, for the normal rule the bigger the parrot it is more likely that they able (able but not necessary they will do) to make higher level of noice. I highlight this topic up because I understand that not everyone have the priviledge to own a very big house (and area) which will able to prevent the noice from their parrot to disturb their neigbhour.

In many occasion, new comer in pet bird or pet parrot keeping fall in love with their dreamed parrot in the first sight or from their reading. They may heard or read about the parrot ability from books or from internet or they may have some friend who have this species of parrot and the parrot able to ‘speak’ (mimic) or perform some trick. However, many fail to realise that different people will have different level of tolerance towards noice level. For some people, they are okay with the noise that their parrot have (in the morning, afternoon and evening and sometimes all day until middle of the night). We also should consider this with the people live around us a.k.a our neigbhour.

Cockatiel will create some noise or whistling sound every now and then especially in the morning and late afternoon. However, if only one individual cockatiel is kept, the noise level that they able to create is not much and still at minimal level compared to other bigger parrot. Cockatiel also didn’t have high pitch sound like lovebirds. They also normally not always ‘sing’ like budgie do. Generally one can keep cockatiel in all type of house – whether it is an apartment, a single house, a link house (terrace house) or a bungalow.

Talking abilities
Generally many parrot will able to mimic. This is not happen to every individual birds but lots of them do. The main different among one species and other is clearity of their voice. Normally big parrot will be easier to train to talk and will have clearer voice. Among the best talker known at this time is African Grey Parrot, Eclectus parrot and Amazon parrot. Cockatoos and macaw family also talk but they are not rank in the top talker bird.

In small parrot category, cockatiel is one of the parrot that have the ability to talk (mimic). Many will learn how to say ‘hello’ and some other phrase which will depend on the training given by the owner. Based on my reading, the species of parrot that hold the records of most vocabulary ( english word) is budgies! strange right ? I believed that many people will think it should be from big parrot family.

I have raised many baby cockatiel and most of them have gone to other good house. There are one individual who currently own by one of my friend which able to mimic ‘hello’. This particular cockatiel name ‘Cupid’, and is less than a year when he mimic that word. If the cockatiel is a handfed baby, they are friendly and more trainable. They are more likely to mimic if the owner spend proper time with them everyday.

Good personality
Human have kept parrot since long time. However, in early stage most of the parrot is from wild caught. Only few that is captive breed. Later, aviculturist is growing and more parrot are produce in captivity. I believed now some of the species that we keep today is totally from captive breed stock and not from wild cought anymore. However, most of the parrot is still exotic and their personality is either still similar to their cousin in the wild or they are still not domesticated. I believed that there are many parrot out there in the market that didn’t have good personality or friendly behaviour.

As far as my experience with my cockatiel, which I believed is more than 100 individual bird (many of them have been sent to good home), I think cockatiel have good, calm and friendly personality. Cockatiel rarely bullies other birds even from smaller species. (provided that they are house in good home and good environment). They normally not charge to people to bite.

Cockatiel also not very moody whereby if the cockatiel is tame, it will be tame. I mean it will not act like a ‘good boy’ in front of you and bite you if you didn’t look at them! Yes, some parrot do this… when you look at them they may stay still but once you didn’t look they come and bite you and they bite hard! Having said this, if the cockatiel is not tame, they will still bite us if we try to catch him.

Cockatiel rarely have mean personality. Most of the cockatiel is friendly, (but some individual is more friendly than other). Handfed cockatiel will still become a tame pet birds even after few year we put them in breeding stock. However, it must be given some time to be used to us again.

Small and compact in size.
Many people likely to be attracted to large bird or parrot. Obvoiusly because they are big and look so elegance. But while these species of parrot look very elegance, they also need lot of space to live happily. For some species of parrot, ten of feets of avairy is their minimum requirement for them to able to perform a healthy lifesyle. Therefore, in many cases many people will prefer to keep smaller species which similair behaviour or pet quality.

Cockatiel didn’t need a very big cage to live happily. A cage of about 3 feet is somehow can make the birds flip their wings and stay healthy. Their cage also didn’t have to be very strong as they are not so destructive. When they are outside their cage, they are also didn’t create any damage to the furniture.

To conclude, there are lots of pets parrot in the market. However, for the beginner I still recommend smaller species of parrot or birds. In these smaller species, definitely cockatiel bird is one of the best option that they should consider. For more information about pet cockatiel, please visit www.pet-cockatiel.com

Decorative and elaborate or simple and functional, birdfeeders and birdhouses are lovingly coveted by many people (and birds)!

The collector seeking a new piece for the den or study need only consider personal taste and aesthetics- many who enjoy the careful art and craftsmanship of a beautiful birdhouse or feeder would never think of placing their precious gift outside in the rain and other elements.

The serious or novice birder, on the other hand, has just a bit more to consider. With a minimal amount of work and some forethought, anyone interested can enjoy observing and identifying birds from their own urban or rural yards or decks throughout the entire year. It is possible to attract up to one hundred different species of birds to a yard with the careful placing of just a few feeders and houses!

While any type of birdfeeder or house will prove itself a delightful addition to your landscape, you should ask yourself just a few questions to guarantee that your bird-attracting efforts are successful for both you and the birds. When choosing the type of feeder or house you need or want, you should consider the following:

Are you trying to attract a wide variety of birds or a specific type of bird?
How often do you want to clean and refill the feeder?
Do you want to see the bird close-up from a window or would you rather lessen the possibilities of window strikes?
Are you ok with starlings and jays that like to perch and can dominate a feeder, or are you trying to attract strictly smaller clinging birds like chickadees and nuthatches?
Further considerations include pests (squirrels…) and predators (housecats…).

This may all seem like a lot, but really, there are many resources at your local library, bookstore or on the internet that are not only interesting, inspiring and fun to read but will help you answer these questions in hardly any time at all.

How easy it is to become excited about the prospects of birdsong in the spring and a little life and movement in the middle of a dreary winter. Don’t let the common misconception that birds become dependant on supplemental food from feeders and fail to thrive, or even die, if that food source is taken away hinder you from welcoming these highly interesting and lovely creatures to your home. This is not true! Conclusive studies from the University of Wisconsin and Penn State attest to this. Regardless of feeders, birds will continue to forage for the majority of their food. In reality, you are providing just a little luxury and ease in the relatively short and difficult life span of most birds. Now isn’t that a nice thing to do?

If you’re looking to spark a new hobby, searching for a unique gift, providing an educational opportunity for your children or just want to do something nice for birds, think about birdhouses or feeders. They are just plain charming and fun! Children especially enjoy the feathered visitors that birdhouses and feeders bring about. Creating a bird habitat and feeding ground is easy. Rather than sitting in front of your TV, computer or X-box, try enjoying the abundant life and nature that can be found as close as your own backyard.

We could all use a little innocence and simple pleasure in our lives these days. Bird watching is an inexpensive, relaxing and enlightening activity for all. Well made and beautiful feeders and houses abound and they make wonderful gifts for any age. Don’t forget to do something nice for yourself either! Feed the birds and they will come!

Note - Make sure cats in your immediate area have bells tied around their necks to warn of their presence. (You might also try this technique on annoying neighbors and unwanted salesmen!)

Happy birding!

PROJECT PLANNING

Before starting a project, four important criteria should be
considered:
- Capital
- Farm
- Management
- Marketing
These four important criteria should come together in order to
achieve success and also the farmer's attitude towards the project.
If one of the criteria is not met, most probably will end up with
failure.
CAPITAL
Before starting a project, capital needed are as follows:
Fixed Cost
- Barn included building fees (Area for 1 bird – 1 Square foot)
- Water tank (together with pvc join)
- Heater (1 small hoover = 500 day old chick)
- Water drinkers for chick (4 units = 100 birds)
- Feed troughs for chick (long trough: 3 units = 100 birds)
- Automatic drinkers (2 units = 100 birds)
- Feed troughs – hanging (2 units = 100 birds)
- Store for keeping apparatus and feed
- Other expenditures (unexpected)
Current Cost
- Day old chicks
- Poultry feed – starter, developer (in layers) and finisher
- Electricity/diesel/water
- Vaccine and medicine
- Building depreciation (5 years)
- Apparatus depreciation (3 years)
- Bank loan interest
- Other expenditures (unexpected)

FARM
Choosing Of Area
- Sufficient area of land
- Good irrigation
- Preferable higher land so that the air ventilation is good
- Far from human activities, have good road connection,
electricity supply, and clean water supply and free from chicken
enemies for e.g. wild animals
- Do not mix with other kinds of poultry such as duck and
village chicken
- Far form housing estates
- Near to the market place
Housing Design and System
The barn should have the following criteria:
- Good air ventilation to dry up the moisture and minimize
ammonia gas from the feaces.
- The size of the barn should be suitable with the number of
chicken reared. Do not build barn that is too small or too bid
because it is not profitable. The suitable size is 1 square foot per
bird. For e.g. 5000 birds need 5000 square feet. Suggested dimension
of the barn: 25feet x 200feet (1 barn) or 25feet x 100feet (2 barns)
- Location of the barn, East – West direction, in order to
avoid from the direct hot sun.
Housing System
Can be divided into 2:
- Raised floor system using cages
- Deep litter system

MANAGEMENT
Either the project will succeed or fail will depend on the level of
competent management. A competent farmer will look into all aspect
of management in order to get maximum income with minimum
expenditure.
These management aspects should be seriously considered:
Breed Selection: criteria of quality day old chick
- Crive, bright round eyes, strong legs, stand steadily and
have dry and soft feather
- The size should not be too small and uniformity in size
- Free from blemish for example leg bent, broken wings, blind
and others
- Purchase day old chick from accredited suppliers.
Feed
Feed is one of the main important factors, which should be seriously
considered by the farmers. 2/3 of the cost of production is from the
feed. Farmers must make sure that there is no wastage during feeding
time and storing.
There are 2 types of feed for broiler chicken:
- Starter feed for age 1 day – 4 weeks (Crude Protein content
= 22 – 24%)
- Finisher/Fattening feed for age 5 weeks – 7 weeks/sale
(Crude Protein content = 19 – 20%)
There are 3 types of feed for layer chicken:
- Starter feed for age 1 day – 8 weeks (Crude Protein content
= 22 – 24%)
- Developer feed for age 8 weeks – 20 weeks (Crude Protein
content = 14%)
- Finisher feed for age 21 weeks – end of lay (Crude Protein
content = 16 – 20%)
Prevention and Control of Diseases
There are many types of chicken diseases. Consult your veterinarian,
however, the common diseases, which should be controlled from early
stages are:
- Ranikhet
- Fowl Pox
- Respiratory diseases
- Pullorum
The following vaccination program should be strictly adhered by the
farmer:
- Day old – Ranikhet "F" Vaccination
- Age 3 weeks – Fowl Pox accination
- Age 6 weeks – Ranikhet "S" Vaccination
Farmers should control the entrance of bacteria carriers such as
birds, village chickens and other livestock from entering the barn
area. Visitors or outsiders should be banned completely.

MARKETING
Marketing of the chicken should be planned. A successful strategy
project will depend on the good market and the price offered.
Marketing Strategy
The farmers in running their business or marketing strategy should
consider four important factors:
- Location/place (near to the marketing place, no
communication problem)
- Production (can be sold in the form of live chicken,
processed and frozen, cuts, eggs and others)
- Price (Depends on the location and market demand)
- Advertisement (Usually done by the big companies)
Income = Income – Current Cost
Production Cost Per Kilogram = Current cost divided by Weight of
chicken

RECORDS KEEPING
The farmers should record every activity, which involved with
finance. 2 types of record should be made: -
Record Management
- To correct the weakness of management
- To make sure the breed chosen are good
- To make sure the feeds are good
- To minimize the mortality rate
- Used suitable medication
Financial Records
- To know the profit/loss level
- To minimize wastage cost
- As a guide in preparing paper work for expanding project in
future

So you want to build a birdhouse. A well-built birdhouse should be durable, keep out the rain, not overheat, and be easy to clean. Keep these requirements in mind and let's get started.

1. First, determine the types of birds you see around your backyard. Then figure out which ones will use a birdhouse. Some birds build nests in trees or bushes, such as doves, cardinals, and mockingbirds. Others may make their nests on the ground or even burrows down in the ground. Only cavity nesting birds will use a birdhouse. Examples of common cavity nesting birds are chickadees, flickers, and bluebirds. Determine the type of bird that you wish to use the birdhouse.

2. Determine the dimensions of the birdhouse. Most birds require different sizes of birdhouses as well as entrance holes. Below you will find a chart with some specs to build houses for various common cavity nesting birds:

3. When selecting the wood to use, use plain untreated lumber. Do not use exterior grade plywood (contains formaldehyde) or pressure-treated lumber (contains toxic preservatives.) Plastic and metal often overheat in the hot summer sun.

4. Almost time to pick out a birdhouse plan. First, however, remember these things about good houses: Has some type of ventilation holes or slots near the roof so heat can escape. Normally these holes will be on the sides of the house - NOT the roof - so rain will not drip in.
•Roof is slanted enough to shed rain and extends well over the entrance hole for protection from rain and sun.
•No perch. Most people think that there should be a perch under the entrance hole. However, the birds nesting inside do not need a perch. The perch also invites predators or other birds to attack or bother the parents and babies inside.
•Has drain holes or small slots in the bottom of the nest box for drainage (you don't want those babies to be drowned during a storm!)
•Has a door, roof, or side wall that can easily be opened to clean out the nest box. Leftover nests can attract mites and other parasites as well as make more work for new occupants who must clear out the old nest.
•Inside wall beneath the entrance hole is roughed up or has some type of grooves for baby birds to climb as they get older.

Type of birdFloor sizeDepthEntrance above floorEntrance hole sizeHeight above ground
Eastern Bluebird5"x5"8"6"1 1/2"5-8 feet
Chickadee4x4"8-10"6-8"1 1/8"6-15 feet
Downy Woodpecker4x4"9-12"6-8"1 1/4"6-20 feet
Flicker7x7"16-18"14-16"2 1/2"6-22 feet
House Wren4x4"8-10"4-6"1 1/4"6-10 feet
Nuthatch4x4"8-10"6-8"1 1/4"12-20 feet
Screech Owl8x8"12-15"9-12"3"10-30 feet
Tits4x4"8-10"6-8"1 1/4"6-15 feet

5. Keeping these above points in mind, select a birdhouse plan for the type of bird you wish to attract to the house.
There are number of excellent birdhouse plans on the Internet as well as many great books you can buy. (See the suggestions at the end of this article.)

6. Never use paint or stain inside the birdhouse. If you want to paint the outside, wait until it is built and paint only the wood that you can see. Be sure to use a non-toxic exterior latex paint that does not contain lead. Light colors will reflect the heat and light, keeping the house cooler in the summer. Or keep the house natural, without paint. Rough cedar or redwood would be an excellent type of wood if you want to go paint-less.

7. Now it's time to put up your birdhouse. They can be attached to wood or metal fence posts, trees, or their own wood or metal posts. Bluebird boxes seem to attract more predators when on trees.
If you are mounting your birdhouse to a post, always try to attach a baffle or collar to prevent snakes, cats, and other predators from climbing the pole to the house.
Locate your house an adequate distance from each other since most nesting parents are territorial. Place the birdhouse where the parents and baby birds are not distracted and worried about your family's activities. The entrance should face away from the prevailing wind. Remember, bluebirds prefer lots of open space in front of their birdhouse and be sure to mount the house at the proper height.

Courtesy: Cedar Creek Woodshop
Visit Cedar Creek Woodshop for a wide variety of birdhouses.
http://www.cedarcreekwoodshop.com

While a bird is an easy pet to care for, they do require just as much commitment and preparation as any other type of pet. Whether you are buying a small parakeet or an large parrot, you should make sure that you are prepared to care for your new feathered friend properly.

One thing that all pets, including birds need is attention. If your schedule has you working long hours and not spending much time at home, perhaps you should consider a fish tank instead of a bird. A bird cannot be left in it’s cage alone all the time and still be expected to be friendly on the odd days when you feel like playing with it. Some birds require more interaction than others, but they are social creatures and need you to set aside some time each day to play with them. You can use this time to teach them tricks and strengthen the bond between you.

When considering bringing a bird into your home, you must think about the safety of your new pet. Are there other pets in the house that could be threatening to the bird? Are there tiny nooks and crannies that a bird could get into and hurt himself? Do the other members of your family leave the windows and doors open where the bird could fly out and be lost? All these things must be considered for the safety of your new pet

The purchase and placement of his cage is another consideration. You must buy a cage that is the right size for your bird. Many parrots become quite adept at opening their own cage doors so you should consider how easy the cage is to break out of. The cage should be made out of a safe material and have bars spaced in such a way that the bird cannot get his head stuck in between them. There should be no sharp edges and their should be appropriate food and water dishes as well as perches inside the cage. Cages can be expensive, but don’t skimp on this as it is your pets new home!

Before you buy the cage, consider where you will be keeping it. It is best if the cage can be in a quiet corner but near family activities as your bird really wants to be part of the family. You should keep it out of direct sunlight, and away from any drafts or anywhere that could have a sudden change in temperature like in front of the heater or air conditions. Avoid placing the cage in the kitchen as fumes and hot surfaces can be hazardous. Be aware that the fumes from nonstick pans can be deadly to a pet bird, so make sure you get rid of all your non stick pans before bringing your bird home. Of course, you will want to keep the cage out of the path of traffic so you need to buy a cage that is the appropriate size for your bird as well as the right size to fit in the intended area.

Depending on the size of your bird, you may want to consider the level of noise that he will produce. Parakeets make little chirpy noises that, for the most part, are not annoying. Conures, on the other hand have a shrill call that goes right through you. Most happy birds will not yell constantly, but it is natural for them to call out at times so make sure you (and your neighbors) can handle the level of noise produced by the bird.

Finally, make sure that you want to commit to the care that is necessary to have a happy healthy bird. You’ll need to clean out the cage daily and make sure you provide fresh food and water. Food your bird a varied diet and have him checked by a vet (preferably one who specializes in birds) every year.

Birds can be very rewarding pets and take minimal care but they must be provided with a comfortable and safe environment and your companionship in order to thrive. Many birds can live for 20 years or more, so you are making a long commitment when you bring home your new feathered friend. This commitment to care and companionship is well worth it, however, as the rewards of owning these enchanting creatures are many!

Visualize watching a bright green hummingbird in your garden moving from flower to flower in search of the tasty nectar within. These beautiful and tiny birds weigh about 2 to 20 grams and are found in a wide variety of environments from the high Andes to lowlands, and from dry desert areas to rainforests. They have slender beaks, extensible tongues, ten primary feathers, and tiny feet suitable for perching but not walking.

Hummingbirds can fly straight up, straight down, backwards, left, right, and even upside down. While most birds obtain their flight strength only from the down stroke, hummingbirds have power on the up stroke as well.

Most hummingbirds flap their wings about fifty times a second and have a very fast heartbeat and high body temperature. They feed every ten minutes or so throughout the day and typically consume two-thirds of their body weight in a single day. Their source of nutrition is primarily nectar from flowers, as well as sources of protein from insects and tiny spiders.

The key to attracting hummingbirds to your garden mainly consists of the right type of flowers and places where they can perch and rest during the day, such as trees or large plants. Hummingbirds are guided by visual means and are particularly attracted to certain shades of red. According to The Hummingbird Society, there are several possible explanations for their preference of red blossoms. Given that insects also see nectar, they can be regarded as competitors. Nearly all insects see well in the visible and near-ultraviolet light but poorly in the red end of the spectrum. Also, a red blossom may appear nearly black and unattractive to a number of insects, but not to the hummingbird, which can see the full visible spectrum but also some in the ultraviolet. This makes it less likely that an insect has taken nectar from a red flower. Another likely explanation is that during migration, red blossoms effectively contrast with a green environment more than other colored flowers do.

Hummingbirds are welcomed guests to nearly all gardens. By planting flowering shrubs and plants that are their favored food source, we can easily attract them to become regular visitors to our gardens. Below is a short list of their preferred flowering plants by common name, separated by region:

Southeastern United States:

•Butterfly Bush
•Cardinal Flower
•Coral or Trumpet Honeysuckle
•Cypress Vine
•Native Trumpet Creeper
•Texas Sage

Southwest United States:

•Indian Paintbrush
•Lantana
•Lily of the Nile
•Mexican Honeysuckle
•Texas Sage
•Western Coral Bean

West Coast United States:

•Beebalm
•Bottle Brush
•Cape Fuchsia
•Colombine
•Salmonberry
•Woodland Orchard

Northeastern United States:

•Blue Lobelia
•Cardinal Flower
•Hollyhock
•Red Morning Glory
•Salvia
•Scarlet Sage

Midwest United States:

•Coral Bells
•Coral Honeysuckle
•Foxglove
•Hosta
•Impatients
•Lilac

Even though flowers are the natural means to attract hummingbirds to your garden, man-made feeders filled with a mixture of water and sugar (sucrose) are an essential alternative. Sugar, whether from a flower or a feeder, is a necessary nutrient in a hummingbird’s diet. Tests have shown that hummingbirds favor sucrose in flower nectar more than other sugars such as fructose and glucose. Therefore, with the proper ratio of ingredients, your feeder becomes a good substitute to the flowers that hummingbirds like best.

The formula for the mixture used in hummingbird feeders is 4 parts water (not distilled) to 1 part table sugar. Boil the mixture for one to two minutes, then cool and store in refrigerator. The mixture can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week. Do not use red food coloring, honey, or artificial sweeteners in your mixture, as this could be harmful to the hummingbirds.

If one of your goals is to attract hummingbirds to your garden, a visit to your local nursery is a great starting point. Find an experienced employee who can tell you which species of plants grow well in your area and have a history of successfully attracting hummingbirds. Most importantly, be imaginative and have fun planting and growing your garden to attract beautiful hummingbirds.

Simply sitting and watching birds is a popular hobby around the world. It's fun and relaxing at the same time.

Many people quite enjoy just watching the birds in their garden, yard, trees and bushes from their front window. And it's even better to actually go out into the wild and watch the birds in their own natural habitats.

"Natural Habitat" of course usually means going into the woods, or to remote areas. So before going on a bird watching outing, be sure you've prepared a little. First and foremost, be sure you're wearing the appropriate clothes for both the location you'll be visiting, and the climate that area is currently experiencing.

If you live in a warm desert area for instance, and you plan to go up a mountain for a day of bird watching, you'll want to first find out if there's any snow on the mountain, or whether it's cold during the daylight hours.

You'll of course also want to be sure you have some food or snacks, and plenty of water to keep you hydrated.

Binoculars are almost a requirement for bird watching too. They allow you to get a close up view of any birds, nests, and chicks. Many bird lovers also enjoy having pen or pencil, and a notepad on hand so they can take notes about the birds they've seen, or sketch them as they're watching.

And of course if you like pictures... you'll want to bring along a camera :)

Last but not least, it would be helpful to have some sort of bird identification system or reference available. Whether you can take it with you into the woods, or you have it hanging at home, these are always quite useful over the long term.

Attract Wild Birds to your Garden this Spring with Bird Houses, Bird Feeders, & Bird Baths! This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.

Some of the best gifts you can give to a bird lover are those that have to do with birds! :) Here are a few favorites of all bird lovers:

* Bird Houses - You can find a wide variety of bird house designs and styles. Usually anyone that really loves birds also really loves different types of bird houses too. Also, when shopping for a bird house, keep in mind that some bird houses are made for specific types of birds, and others can be used by multiple types and sizes.

* Bird Baths and Fountains - These also make wonderful gifts for bird lovers because they tend to attract more birds to the yard. Birds love to play in water as well as drink and bathe in it. So these make fantastic gifts for bird lovers. Something to know when buying bird baths and fountains though: Birds are easily scared. So try to avoid any bright colors - especially red - and try to avoid shiny things that reflect the sun.

* Bird Feeders - Another nice gift for bird lovers because this also tends to draw birds in from miles around. Birds also remember their feeding spots over the winter... and when they come back to their feeding spot the following spring they're likely to bring more birds with them.

Attract Wild Birds to your Garden this Spring with Bird Feeders, Bird Houses, & Bird Baths! This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.

Hummingbirds feed off of plants and a few insects, but because of the speed which their wings flutter when they're in flight, they tend to burn a heck of a lot of energy. They need to eat about every 15 minutes!

You can help by providing Humming Bird Food, known as Hummingbird Nectar, in your yard or garden. There's no reason to buy it from the store either, because it's just simple sugar and water.

And it's easy too: 4 parts water to 1 part sugar. That's it.

So, if you wanted to make 4 cups of Hummingbird Nectar, you'd first boil 4 cups of water for about 5 minutes. Turn the water off then stir in the sugar. Keep stirring until it's completely dissolved.

Do not add any coloring, flavoring, powdered drink mixes, honey or otherwise: All of these can be dangerous to the Humming birds.

Let the mixture cool fully before putting it out for your Humming birds too, you wouldn't want to accidently hurt them with hot Nectar.

Put any remaining nectar in the fridge, it can keep for about two weeks.

© 2005, Kathy Burns-Millyard. This article is brought to you by The Bird House Shop Section of The Garden Source Network, where you can buy Humming Bird Feeders, Bird Houses, Bird Baths and Related Wild Bird Accessories.

One of the hardest phobias, both to deal with and explain to your friends, is a bird phobia. Sure, everyone thinks they're pretty. They sing their little songs, the have the lovely plumage, and they look nice on tree branches. But they've also got those talons, those beaks, and a set of nasty wings that they put to use in the most bizarre ways. A bird phobia is not uncommon, but it is very inconvenient when you want to go outside to mow the lawn or work in the garden. Let's face it, the birds aren't going anywhere and you need to conquer your fear of them if you want to leave the house without always nervously looking skyward. Hypnosis is one way in which you can finally put your bird phobia to rest and enjoy the outdoors.

Though when most people think of hypnosis as a way to quit smoking or make other people think they are chickens, it is actually a powerful tool for ridding oneself of phobias. Thanks to its ability to, in a way, reprogram the conscious mind through the subconscious mind, hypnosis can help you rid yourself of bothersome bugaboos such as a bird phobia.

Hypnosis uses a form of deep relaxation, not unlike meditation, to calm the subject into a state in which suggestion may be applied. These suggestions can be very powerful, as they tap into the subject's subconscious mind to work through the roadblocks, such as phobias, that prevent us from fully enjoying all that life has to offer. Thus, a bird phobia can be conquered through the use of self-hypnosis tapes or by visiting a professional hypnotherapist.

If you want to finally put your bird phobia to rest, hypnosis may be your key to fully enjoying the outdoors. You don't need to continually listen for bird calls, worrying just how far away those little terrors may be. Instead, you could simply appreciate the sounds of their songs, their brilliant colors, and their grace in the air. Hypnosis can turn your feathered fiends into feathered friends in very little time. If you want to give it a try, there are plenty of resources available. So start investigating your options and see what hypnosis can do for your bird phobia.

“Of all animated beings, the hummingbird is the most elegant in form, the most brilliant in color. The precious stones and metals to which our art lends polish are not compared to this gem of Nature, whose masterpiece the little bird represents. She has loaded it with all the gifts of which she has given other birds only a share... The emerald, the ruby, the topaz all glitter in its plumage, which is never sullied by the dust of the ground.”

- Comte de Buffon (18th century French naturalist)

Hummingbirds are the neatest addition to a garden. Many people try to attract them with red-colored sugar water. Inevitably though trying this method to attract them will allow one highly territorial male to declare that it is HIS FEEDER, unless as a friend of mine did, you provide a whole bunch of spaced out feeders.

Myself, not ever having observed them in this common fashion just accidentally discovered them in my garden. There are all sorts of lists available that attract them. I never really paid any attention to any of this hummingbird attracting. I just planted things solely for the color or time of year they bloom or because I liked the look of the plant.

One hot afternoon following a thunderstorm, while sitting on the porch enjoying the now cooler air, I spied the first hummingbird in my garden. He was enjoying a veritable feast of the Gardenview Scarlet Beebalm right in front of my chair. I had left the front door wide open as no bugs were yet flying to let the fresh breeze waft into the house. Suddenly he was hovering on the porch in front of the door. As I watched, he darted right into the front hall. Just as I was poised to rise and go shoo him out, he hummed right back across the porch and dove into the red hanging geraniums.

A few days later, I found his wife in the same clump of Beebalm. He flew in and attacked her right inside the plant. Beating her with his wings and a fair amount of squeaking and commotion came from inside the highly disturbed plant. After several minutes of the wildly waving bloom war, she surrendered and left the plant. He pursued her right around the corner of the porch, across the entire back yard and out into the woods.

Pretty selfish of him, I thought, what an arrogant old thing. Then he swooped back into view and became a tiny bump as he took up surveillance of his flowers on a high branch of the big Maple on the driveway. Back she came again and went into the Beebalm.

So I settled back in my chair to watch the domestic dispute from a most excellent ringside position. Sure enough, what we had here was a quarrel equal to a married couple over which wallpaper should be hung in the powder room. For no sooner had she settled into drinking the spicy nectar than he came charging right back and beat her up again. That was the last time I found her anywhere near the plant in question, evidently two beatings were enough to change her tune of defiance. He wasn’t really all that bad though for a bird guy I suppose, as he did let her have all the Phlox and Delphinium she wanted.

Now years later I have split off several other clumps and planted them along the outside of the fence, she is allowed to drink from those Beebalms. She never ventures near HIS CLUMP. The second summer after they came to dwell here, I was honored with the presence of their offspring. In awe I watched her teach the tiny gold baby about the size of bumblebee to drink the nectar from the Phlox. Pushing its head into the bloom with that needle sharp beak of hers until the babe got the idea of how to feed itself. Standing there witnessing her repeatedly jabbing the tiny head with that sharp needle beak, I had to rub my own head imagining how that must feel. Is it any wonder that the little thing quickly caught on and was drinking without assistance?

The same pair returns every summer to dwell in the flowers and raise their young. I am treated with watching them perched on the patio trellis in early the evening shadows, drawn there for the Delphinium that waves beside it.

It is common knowledge that the Ruby-throated Hummingbird is attracted to the color red. Truth be known, they enjoy any scented flower from my observations of their behavior. Plants that they feed on here include Sweet Alyssum, all colors of Tall Phlox and Beebalm (monarda), perennial and annual Salvias, scented Roses, geraniums no matter what color they are and Delphiniums. I am sure that a lengthier list of plants one can add to the garden to keep the hummingbirds well fed and returning year after year.

Through the gift of a book about Hummingbirds, I discovered that though there 150 different types of these tiny jewels only one, the Ruby-throated Hummingbird, flies as far north as the eastern United States. The smallest Hummingbird is only two inches long, and the largest measures eight and a half inches in length. No matter their size, as a species they wears feathers the color of every brilliant jewel tone known to man.

The reason that their feathers are so brilliant is because they are not colored with pigment as any other bird’s plumage. For some reason this particular breed’s feathers are black and filled with a substance known as “melanin”. The feathers are only colored as the white light reflects off them. This is the reason for the colors to change when the sunlight shines from a different direction.

If a Hummingbird feather is crushed, it turns black and is never irridescent again. Even after death their feathers retain their ability to flash color in the sunlight forever unless mangled or smashed. Other breeds of bird feathers lose their color slowly after death as the pigments face over time. Many stuffed examples of birds in museums must have their feathers painted after a while to show visitors what they look like. Hummingbirds require no such treatment so long as the feathers are not damaged. The brilliancy of their feathers lasts forever, much like the precious gems whose colors they contain, making them a very special bird indeed.

Copyright © 2005 Tammy Clayton

This brightly colored bird has always been a romantic symbol for their unusual coloring as well as their gentle loving nature. In Victorian times, they were a common artful addition to romantic floral artwork on greeting cards and calling cards. Today, it is a rare thing to see a Bluebird flitting about.

The Bluebird is a native American. When European colonists originally settled this land, they had been here for thousands of years. It is believed that when the virgin forest on the east coast was in the first stages of being cleared, the Bluebird flourished and became more abundant. Its original adversary the Wren also became more plentiful right along with them though. The Wren is far more aggressive that the Bluebird and searches for a very similar type of abode. So as both species multiplied, the wrens made it hard for the Bluebird to make a home unless it faced due east.

Two events in history caused the dwindling of our brilliant blue native’s numbers. The ships that carried the influx of human immigrants to our shores in 1851 and 1890 also gave passage to two feathered immigrants from Europe; the House Sparrow and the Starling. Both of these newcomers were adapted to the crowded industrial environments of urban and suburban Germany and England. The Sparrow already was known to have spread on that continent. Being resourceful, they quickly adapted to living in rural farmland. Both Sparrows and Starlings like a roof over their head. The new squatters aggressively put pressure on the gentle Bluebirds and took over their nests.

With so many people inhabiting the United States today, it is little wonder we see very little of the country loving Bluebird. There is a growing interest in the creation of housing for this beloved species beyond the bird-watching enthusiasts. The Bluebird house is becoming a popular addition to backyards, school property lines and farms again.

Bluebird houses were first put up in the late 1800’s by bird lovers trying to accommodate their need for housing after the Sparrows and Starlings took over the easily accessible barn rafters, nooks in houses, hollow trees and fence posts across America. Natural nesting sites have also grown more scarce as farmers now manicure their orchards, and wooden fence posts have fallen out of use in exchange for metal ones. By the 1930’s bird watchers were already wondering what happened to all those sweet singing beauties of days not so long gone by.

The first studies of Bluebird nesting habits were conducted in 1919 in Minnesota. Successful nest sites were measured for the size of the holes, as well as for the exact location and the role of predators and competitors. The tests were done in open pastures, orchards and suburban back yards. Concluding that only with massive saturations of scientifically designed predator-competitor proof nesting boxes could the decline of the Bluebird be stopped. So they established and monitored Bluebird trails with tens to hundreds of nesting boxes strung out across the land. The monitors set up communication networks in newspapers, magazines and the mail. Wherever there were Bluebird trail sponsors, Bluebirds began to reappear for people to enjoy. It is quite a thrill to see one, especially when one understands the odds against their gentle souls.

It needn’t be inevitable that Bluebirds, once the most common thing in a yard, continue to loose ground against these alien intruders. Their population has dwindled and become so low, they are almost like a myth. Our Eastern Bluebird has suffered the most serious in loss. Amateurs and bird lovers alike can accomplish the hob in restoring the numbers of our native azure friends. The trails already in existence across the UDA and Canada form a network of hope across the continent. Armies of trail tenders and box erectors will bring more and more of them back to your yards as the number of boxes grows greater.

Found only in North America, these sweet noted dwellers of fence posts have a tender voice to go along with their gentle nature. No other species of bird has been used as much as the Bluebird in poetry and songs as a symbol of love, hope and happiness. The early settlers looked upon this bird as the sign that spring had arrived, and fondly called it the Blue Robin.

In Michigan, as all the other states east of the Rocky Mountains, we have the Eastern Bluebird. There are only two others—Western and Mountain. Their diet is mainly insects, most of which are yard and garden pests. In the spring they love the cutworms that ruin crops and garden plants. Later in the summer through fall they dine on huge quantities of grasshoppers and wild berries. It is said that their courtship is beautiful and amazing, but it is a rare sight to behold.

The Bluebird is very territorial, the male protecting his food supplies from other male Bluebirds’ trespassing. The nesting site must have sufficient food for them to raise their young and exist themselves for them to be tempted to set up housekeeping. Only the female builds the nest in the chosen shelter, while the male accompanies her solely by singing his encouragement while she works.

Nest building starts in mid-May in Michigan and 3 to 5 clear blue eggs are laid in the clutch. The baby birds grow alarmingly fast, ready to leave the next in 15 to 20 days after hatching. By that time they are strong enough to fly fifty to one hundred feet their first attempt at flight to the nearest perch.

By early September most Bluebirds have finished up their family responsibilities for the season. A fortunate pair will have raised two or even three broods by that time. During the fall, families of Bluebirds roam leisurely through the countryside on a quest for insects and berries in great abundance.

Over these travels, different families join together in a loose flock, as they get ready for migrating. The date of their heading south is timed more by the weather and food supply than by the calendar. They migrate in search for food and congregate in more southern parts of their regions.

It is not that the Bluebird cannot spend winter in the northern areas like Michigan, quite to the contrary they will stay as long as the food supply lasts. Planting trees, shrubs and vines with berries that last through the winter will provide much needed foor for wintering birds. Bittersweet, flowering Dogwood, Cotoneasters, Washington Hawthorns, Privet, Sumac, Pyracantha, flowering Crabapples, Virginia Creeper, multiflora Roses (rose hips), and Mountain Ash are all favorite food sources in the cold season for birds that thrive in the northern climates. They can sometimes be tempted to feeding stations with raisins, other fruits and berries and chopped unsalted peanuts, but they are not seed eaters so you will never find them eating from normal bird feeders. Should the small fruits and berries they depend on become crusted with ice and snow, the effort of providing food will keep them from starving to death. If they are forced to go to roost hungry, bitter cold will cause many of them to die.

Properly built winter houses are enough protection from severe weather for them to live year round even in the north. To accommodate them for winter roosting, the box should be large enough to shelter a number of birds. Floor dimensions should be 10” x 10”, with a depth of 18” and a width of 24”. The hole must be 1 1/2” or Starlings will move in on them, and needs to be at the bottom of the box with a perch placed beneath it. Several horizontal perches should be positioned inside at various levels at staggered intervals up one sidewall using 1/2” doweling The side of the box should be hinged to allow cleaning in the spring. The box must be at least 6 feet of the ground to protect them from predators while they sleep, using a smooth metal pole that is greased so that nothing can climb it to reach the box. Place the winter roosts facing south for the most warmth from the sun.

For nesting boxes, again the hole should measure only 1 1/2” and be situated about 5 foot off the ground for observance of the young in the nest. But for the nesting the hole should be toward the top of the box to protect the young from cold drafts. The nesting box must face due east. Nesting boxes cannot be any closer than 100 foot apart. Too many boxes will result in no Bluebirds—remember they are territorial and will only reside where they know there is enough food for themselves and their young.

Small air holes should be put next to the roof board, and drainage should be provided in the floor so it will not fill up with water. The roof should be slanted downward in the front to stop rain from blowing into the nest.

What a delightful preserve to add to your yard, create your own Bluebird Reserve. Stop spraying the cutworms and grasshoppers, plant oodles of berry-bearing plants, and erect proper housing for both seasons in a suburban to rural setting and trust me, they will inspect the site and set to building a nest.

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Decorative Birdhouses are active garden ornamentation --the presence and movement of birds creates a fluid focal point for your garden. As such, placement is critical for you to earn maximum benefit from your birdhouses. Cavity nesting birds will not be attracted to your garden without the appropriate environment. Each bird has a particular way they want to live and specific needs.


You'll have a better chance of getting the feathered tenant of your choice if you do your research. For example, if you want to host Eastern Bluebirds, you'll need to place the birdhouse at approximately 5 feet high and provide an entrance of 1 ½ inch in diameter. On the other hand, The Northern Flicker is drawn by heights of up to 30 feet and needs a southeast facing home. Wrens like their nests to be located in shrubs, while Swallows desire close proximity to bodies of water. Building a pond or enhancing an existing one will make your garden more attractive to these particular birds. You will also enjoy the added aesthetic.


In addition to bird knowledge, you can attract most birds with a birdbath, carefully selected foliage, and plants that bear fruit. However, keep these a distance from the birdhouse so that the birds occupying it will not have to compete to keep it. If you don't want to mount a pole in your garden area, you can attach your birdhouse to a tree limb, tree trunk, or fence post.


Additional tips are as follows:

• Situate the birdhouse entrance in such a way as to avoid overheating it.
  
• Place the birdhouse out of the way of predators like cats and coyotes.
  
• Allow for a clear flight pattern to the entrance hole.
  
• Place the appropriate nesting material near your birdhouse to make it easy for birds to settle in.
  
• Keep bird food fresh.
  

Bird feeders are a great way to add some visual interest to your yard or patio. Not only do bird feeders add color and a finishing touch to your outdoor decor, but they are a source of relaxing entertainment as well.


There are bird feeders available in every style, from elegant to country, from natural to whimsical. A bird feeder is a simple way to set a mood in your yard or to complement an ongoing theme. The variety of bird feeders available is nearly endless.


To decide which style of bird feeder is right for you, first consider what type of birds you want to attract, and then what style would complement your yard or patio. For a formal garden you may want to choose a simple but elegant copper design, but for a country garden you may want a whimsical design with bright colors.


There are also several attractive bird feeders that are easy enough for anyone to make. For natural-looking bird-feeders, a branch with drilled holes stuffed with suet, a hollow gourd with an opening in the side, or a pinecone filled with peanut butter make great bird feeders. For a more decorative look, use a bouquet of dried flowers with seeds, such as sunflowers or coneflowers, as a bird feeder. Or for an informal look, simply fill an old saucer from a clay pot with bird seed. Place it at the top of a post, or anywhere else you enjoy watching the birds.


For those with a little more time and talent, there are thousands of designs for bird feeders made from wood and plexiglass. Most are fairly simple and require only basic tools to build. Wooden bird feeders can be painted and decorated any way you wish, which make them especially fun for decorating your yard.


Once you've decided what type of bird feeder is right for your yard, sit back and enjoy the incredible show the birds will put on at your feeder.

5 Tips for Successful Bird Watching
Chuck Fitzgerald ©2004. All Rights Reserved.

Can you name the number one spectator sport in North America? It’s not baseball, figure skating or racing. It’s bird watching. That’s right, more people are watching birds than football and hockey combined. With so many people hoping to see a bird they’ve never seen before, it’s not surprising to see a clamoring for the latest tips and tools to get the job done. Here are my top five tips for getting the most out of your birding experience.

#1. Get to Where the Birds Are! This sounds obvious, but many birders spend the majority of their bird watching time and energy on poor locations. Some folk have the advantage of looking out of their windows into the back yard to observe nature’s best. The rest of us need to get moving. I would highly recommend visiting a National Wildlife Refuge. There are over 500 of them across the United States. To find one near you, visit http://refuges.fws.gov/
#2. Know What Species to Expect. There are approximately 900 species of birds in the United States and recognizing each of them is nearly impossible. So when you visit an area, do a little research first. You may find that perhaps only a few species actually inhabit that particular area. With a little preparation, you will be able to more readily identify bird species from each other. Keep a list of successfully viewed species – we’ll call this tip number two and a half.
#3. Get a Great Pair of Binoculars. Spending time and money to get to the right place can be totally wasted when your binoculars are inadequate. If you have an inexpensive pair of binoculars you are not getting the most out of your viewing. Today’s technologies come at a price and they provide crucial benefits in wildlife viewing. For instance, image stabilization will keep your view from shaking-very important when watching from a long distance. Other cool features include anti-fogging, low-light viewing and wide-view characteristics. Additionally, binoculars with built-in digital cameras enable you to identify birds once you get home. These benefits will definitely enhance your bird watching. A great pair of binoculars will turn a mediocre experience into a great one. You can count on it!
#4. Practice Before You Go. A key to viewing wildlife, and especially birds, is to have the ability to very quickly put your binoculars on target. Many people have difficulty finding a full moon in a pair of binoculars-but alas-learning to focus on a bird in a bush or track a bird in flight is easy for someone who has practiced prior to their outing. Try this before you go; lower your binoculars to your side and very quickly raise them to find and follow a jet airliner across the sky. After only a few attempts, you’ll get good at quickly acquiring your target. Quite often, birds are visible for only a few seconds, practice to become proficient.
#5. Take Someone with You. Life is always better when shared. Not only do you get to spend time out of doors with someone you like, but they might alert you to the “Number One Sight of the Day.” Share your birding experiences with your friends and family. Pass the birding excitement to a child.

The best part about wildlife viewing is that you the viewer, control almost every aspect of the experience. The more you are prepared, the more rewarding your time in our backcountry will be. Follow these 5 simple tips to get the most out of birding. Get Outdoors!

Feeding the Hummingbirds

© LeAnn R. Ralph 2004

Early in May here in west central Wisconsin, I can count on seeing a Ruby Throated Hummingbird hovering in front of my kitchen window, flitting back and forth, as if to say, "there was a hummingbird feeder RIGHT HERE last year. Where is it?"

And then I know it is time to put out hummingbird nectar. I feed a 3-to-1 mixture of water and sugar (3 cups of water and 1 cup of sugar brought to a boil and cooled to room temperature). After the hummingbirds' long trip from South America, they are thin and hungry.

The general rule-of-thumb is a 4-to-1 mixture, but to start out in early spring I always use a 3-to-1 mixture. Later on in the summer, when there are more flowers available, I switch to a 4-to-1 mixture.

I know it is important to wash the hummingbird feeder when I fill it to clean out any mold. I know it is also important to thoroughly rinse the hummingbird feeder when I am finished cleaning it to remove any soap or other chemicals.

If the feeder has visible mold, I use a bleach solution (1 teaspoon of bleach to several cups of water) to kill off the mold and mildew. Then I rinse the feeder thoroughly, under running water, for several minutes with hot water and for several minutes with cold water.

The best hummingbird feeder I've found is a Rubbermaid feeder. It holds two cups of nectar, and it is as sturdy now as it was when I bought it four years ago. Other hummingbird feeders cracked when I tried to wash them, either at the end of the first year or the beginning of the next.

I also set out two of those little "flower balls" for the hummingbirds — little round balls that hold about a quarter cup of nectar with a large, brightly-colored plastic flower that fits down inside the neck. The flower balls fit into a holder that mounts on a steel rod pushed down into the ground. The hummingbirds love the "flowers" that give them another source of food.

Usually, right around our yard, we have between four and six pair of Ruby Throated Hummingbirds. Later on in the summer, when their offspring start coming for the nectar, we have many more hummingbirds flying around the yard. Pine trees on the east and north sides of the yard provide a perch for the hummingbirds while they wait their turn to get at the feeder.

Not that the hummingbirds are especially patient about waiting their turn at the feeder. They chase each other around and chatter and scold. I am scolded, too, when I have the audacity to remove the feeder from its hook in front of the kitchen window so that I can wash it out and fill it with fresh nectar. On more than one occasion, I have ducked to avoid a collision with a hummingbird.

I have learned not to wear a red shirt when taking down the hummingbird feeder during the day. A red shirt causes the hummingbirds to flit back and forth in front of my face, as if searching for the perfect access to this huge, glorious RED flower they see before them.

Instead of filling the hummingbird feeders during the day and risking a collision with the tiny birds, I often wait until after dark to take down the feeder, wash it and fill it with fresh nectar. That way, when the hummingbirds are looking for food early in the morning, they will find a clean feeder filled with fresh nectar.

As the season progresses, the hummingbirds dramatically increase their nectar consumption so that by July, I am filling the hummingbird feeder at least once per day. I like having the hummingbird feeder in front of my kitchen window where I can closely observe the hummingbirds as they perch on the feeder and dip their beaks into the nectar. When the light is just right, I can see their impossibly long tongues darting out to suck up more of the liquid or to lick off the tiny droplet hanging from the end of their beaks.

When the light is just right, it is also easy to see why they are called "Ruby Throated" hummingbirds. The red feathers at the base of the male's throat glow like the ruby slippers in the Wizard of Oz.

All summer long I watch the hummingbirds, and as September approaches, they became more and more frantic to eat as much as they can, in preparation for the long flight back to South America.

And then, early in September, one day it will dawn on me that I haven't seen as many hummingbirds. As more days pass, the remaining hummingbirds leave too. Eventually I don't see any hummingbirds at all, and I know it will be many months, with a long hard winter in between, before I can once again feed the hummingbirds that hover in front of my kitchen window.

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